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Routes in Vector Madness Wall
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Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Colander Man T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Damn You Darwin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hop Rising Point T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lack of Principle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Magic School Bus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Worries T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | JS, Janie Saviers-Steiger, June 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,065 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Jun 26, 2016 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Pi takes the nice looking moderate face right of Lack of Principle, followed by one of the most unusual 5.7 pitches in the area. From the walk-out ledge, follow a line with three bolts (gear between) to a large ledge and belay by tying off a huge boulder. (About 15 feet left on the ledge is the two-bolt belay (Metolius rap anchors) for Zach's and Doubling, but your second will appreciate it if you belay from the boulder.) Pitch 2 avoids the gigantic cammed block above the boulder by stepping right, clipping a hidden bolt, then working up a left-leaning ramp (small cams useful) to another bolt over a bulge and heading straight-up past a third bolt to the anchors. On the second pitch, just left of the second bolt, there is a large cammed flake; it wouldn't budge with a pry bar, but be circumspect using it. Bolts added after the FA to make it more suitable and fun for beginning trad leaders.
Location
About 30 feet right of Lack of Principle is an obvious walk-out ledge with a belay bolt. The route lies above. Rap from chains (60m rope mandatory to reach the ledge with one rap) or continue up the ridge as far as you’d like (3rd or 4th class; this is the upper part of Straddle the Pony, above its crux section).
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