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Redgarden - Tower Two
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Natural Mystic  T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Physical Graffiti S 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
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T2 T 
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Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

Physical Graffiti 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Johnson, Alex Shainman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 742
Submitted By: EDJ on Jan 21, 2015

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Dave pulling the steeeep crux on Physical Graffiti...

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  • Description 

    This pitch has some fun moves on nice stone in a great position. The bulge requires you to get the Led out for sure! It is a great alternative to the junky pitch on upper T2. It is possible to lead from the Upper Ramp from either Love Minus Zero or After The Gold Rush into the shallow corner on L.M.Z. in one mega pitch!

    Location 

    Begin at the small stance where P4 of T2 and P3 of Love Minus Zero join about 120 feet up the wall. A bomber belay with large wires can be set here. Follow bolts up and rising to the left, then over the bulge. Climb twenty five feet of easy ground from the last bolt to the anchor and the belay niche.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to slung horn anchor. Either continue with Seams Beyond or T2 to the summit or rap 60m to the Upper Ramp. You can also get to the Le Void anchor then to the ramp with one 70m rope.


    Photos of Physical Graffiti Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa resting before the crux roof.
    Lisa resting before the crux roof.

    Comments on Physical Graffiti Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Jan 21, 2015

    This is another route for which to thank A.C.E., GO ACE!
    By dameeser
    From: denver
    Mar 8, 2015

    Thanks for the work. This is a nice line.
    By Lisa Montgomery
    From: Golden, CO
    May 12, 2015

    Fantastic! The traverse is interesting and sustained, and the crux through the bulge is quite powerful. It's somewhat of a reach to make the 2nd clip (extendo cheater draw helped me). Thanks for the route, guys!
    By Sputnick
    Mar 7, 2016
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Thanks for the time and development of this new line. The technical face and traverse were challenging and fun. I didn't pull the crux roof clean but still enjoyed it. If someone wanted to skip the crux, it looked like you could traverse left into the crack.

    Gear beta: after the last bolt, I wasn't sure whether to go left or right to the slung horn. Both looked lichenful and runout. I went left, and it was annoying. I checked afterwards and found a slot for a nut out right and a #2 C4 in a hidden pocket. I'd recommend it.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 3, 2016
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    I'm not sure how you get down rapping to the Le Void anchor... the rat's nest is super tough to get to. We ended up leaving a biner on the two bolts of After the Gold Rush....

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