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Phylynx T 

Phylynx 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: adam winslow on May 20, 2011

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Description 

This is a steep, thin face that finishes with a small finger crack. A very high quality climb by Rocky Butte standards. Probably best as a top-rope as the bolts are old with homemade hangers on them. Tim Olsen's book describes the bulge as the crux but at 6' tall I found that to be only 5.10 climbing. For me the crux was the last 10' of face moves leading up to the crack. A sequence of enduro balance side-pull and crimping that left me out of gas for the easier moves after I reached the crack.

Location 

Rappel from a tree anchor and the bolt at the top to a newer 2 bolt anchor about 20' from the ground. Establish an anchor and climb up and left following bolts past a bulge and finish via a small crack.

Protection 

There is a single bolt with a homemade hanger at the top. Best to back it up with one of the large trees. The first part of the climb is bolted with homemade hangers. The crack near the top takes small pro to 1 1/2".


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