Type: | Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Glenn Woloski |
Page Views: | 4,763 total · 33/month |
Shared By: | Hans Bauck on May 29, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
On the left side of Slhanay, Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.
P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.
The crux corner of the first pitch of Photophobia, Slhanay, Squamish.
P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.
Either rappel from here, or ....
P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.
Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.
Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.
P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.
The crux corner of the first pitch of Photophobia, Slhanay, Squamish.
P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.
Either rappel from here, or ....
P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.
Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.
Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.
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