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(3) Phoenix
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Late spring, early fall
Page Views: 5,157
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (263)
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The Phoenix (.10a). Bolted anchors are just past ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Arguably the finest 5.10a in the park, the Phoenix has great moves, high quality rock, and bolts just where you need them. This climb combines several powerful moves with a classic crimpy crux.

A cam or nut may be placed down low as the first bolt is a bit exposed.


quickdraws and possibly long slings for anchor to reduce drag.

Chains at top

Photos of Phoenix Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A lousy shot but gives a good perspective of the r...
BETA PHOTO: A lousy shot but gives a good perspective of the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: FUN

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 9, 2008

Fun route with a good crux section. Can't wait to get on more routes tomorrow.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

If the distance to the first bolt scares you, bring up a #3 cam.
By Phill T
May 27, 2012

not sure about best 10a in the park. avoid this one if you dont like cranking on monos.
By T Banch
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 21, 2013

It gets a little run out after the last bolt to the anchors, but the climbing becomes very easy at that point.
By pdxuller
Oct 10, 2013

This route is fun and worth doing, but with respect to the OP, there is no way this is the best 5.10 in the park.
By nickehman
From: Fresno, CA
Nov 11, 2013

If you're feeling a little bold/bored and crafty, this thing goes on gear. It might be borderline PG13 but its all there with good stances. Standard rack up to 1" with tricams. Pretty fun to do it this way.
By Jacob Smith
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 28, 2014

Given how detached that flake looks, a cam behind it would be a poor idea, the bolt was easy to get to compared with many other sport climbs on neighboring walls, maybe 5.5-6 to that point (none of that crux-before-the-first-bolt *cough*ThePeanut*cough* nonsense)

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