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Trail Lake Pinnacle AKA Goliath Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mini Moses S 
Mountaineer's Route S 
Phobos T 
South Bench Cracks S,TR 

Phobos 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1+ [details]
FA: Joe Larsen 2-21-71
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Eli Boardman on Aug 2, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Phobos

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Description 

Climb the obvious crack in the middle of the southwest face without using the bolts of Mini Moses to the left. The crack starts at the ground and accepts small cams for the first section (C1-). When the cam placements get trickier and the rock has a lower angle white band, make some free moves (well protected 5.7) past some loose rocks to a large ledge. The physical crux is transitioning from aid to free at this point. The crack narrows drastically here and continues upward, slanting slightly right. Place a piton to get off the ledge and a Leeper cam hook as the next piece. This is the logistical crux at A1+. From a high step on the hook, place a medium cam behind a block then follow the much wider crack as it goes sharply left. There is a fixed #1 cam in this crack, probably because it is a logical finish to the much easier-looking south face. At the end of the crack make a few 5.4 moves through blocks to the summit.

Protection 

Cams .3-3 including a .4 and doubles of .5 and .75, 1 thin Lost Arrow piton, 1 regular Leeper cam hook, a pink (.5) tricam for a placement at the beginning of the wide, left-angling crack, some quickdraws, etriers, etc.

Location 

This is the complete crack about 10-20 feet climber's right of the bolt line on Mini Moses on the southwest face of the pinnacle. It wanders below the white band, then trends slightly right and then sharply left.


Photos of Phobos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Phobos
BETA PHOTO: Phobos
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the final crack
Leading the final crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the white band
Just below the white band
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the piton
Looking up from the piton

Comments on Phobos Add Comment
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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Aug 2, 2017

This was the route of Joe Larsen's FA of the tower back in '71. I also heard from Davin Bagdonas that he had done the presumed FFA of the tower via a variation of this line in '98 or '99. He definitely didn't free the initial crack, but started somewhere off to the right and then upper cracks. I'll see if I can find the notes he sent me. Piton scars in the initial crack were still visible when I was there 15 yrs ago.
By Eli Boardman
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 3, 2017

I updated the first ascent data accordingly. I couldn't see any scars in the lower or middle crack.

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