REI Community
The Black Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm, The T 
Cannonball Corner T 
Cary Granite T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Emerald Highway, The T 
Escape Route T 
Espresso T 
Good Evans T 
Harry Cary T 
High Variance T 
Old Rappel Route T 
Parallel Universe T 
Phil-a-Guster T 
Rainbow Highway T 
Road Warrior T 
Rusty Dagger, The T 
Seven Sins (linkup of S.O.A.S into H.V.) T 
Sinners On Sunday T 
Undertow T 
Undertow (free) T 
Unnamed Bolted Face T,S 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Summer '08, FFA - Sam B. & Dave M., 07/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Monty on Aug 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting into the crux of Phil-a-Guster, Tom Jense...


So this is the direct finish to Good Evans.

From the bolted belay on top of the roof, look straight up at the 2 fixed pins in the seam in the headwall (crux). Work your way up a crack system straight up from the belay to an awkward stance below a roof. Clip the first pin start pulling the roof, clip your second pin, and pull a large move to a jug. Belay on a cozy ledge 5 feet from the rim.

This makes a much more enjoyable finish to Good Evans adding some awesome, steep, face climbing to the day!

Pins were installed by Ken Trout late summer of '08.


This is the direct finish to Good Evans.


Small rack from #0.3 to #1. 2 pins + some mid to hand-sized gear for a bomber belay.

Comments on Phil-a-Guster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 14, 2009

According to Ken, he did not know of anyone trying the line prior to him placing the pins. We did this as a mini-adventurous way to finish our day not knowing that it "hadn't" been done.

The name comes from the fact that all marmots are either named "Phil" (the skinny Phil like ones) or "Guss" (the fat well... Guss like ones).

If any one did this before us, I will remove our shenanagans, but for now this is great finish to a great route.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Sep 14, 2009

I finished this way up in August, and it was an awesome little way to finish with some sport crankin'! I also thought it was .11a or b. big move off a matched hold!
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

We finished with this variation, I assumed it was the actual finish of the route. Seems a little harder than 10c, at least in my opinion. Great way to end a spectacular route

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About