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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Dogpatch T 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Kor Direct to Super Slab T 
Lemon Line T 
Lime Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rosy I T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Stray Stud T 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural, aka Dr. Thrill T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 


YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: FTR: Charlie Fowler FHP: Josh Wharton?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: josh wharton on Jan 23, 2004

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  • Description 

    This pretty little line is just uphill from the classic 5.8 Mr. Natural. Rossiter mentions it in his guidebook as "Phee-nix .11d," and says it is "unclear if the line has ever been led." Phee-nix Direct is essentially a boulder problem start to "Phee-nix" proper that climbs directly up into the short left facing corner of "Phee-nix" (which I believe traverses in from easy terrain to the right). Cool but scary moves lead off the ground and gain the corner above. Some small cams in the corner ease the mind before a touch of unprotected 5.10- face climbing gains the ledge above. At the ledge, it's easy to link directly into "Rough Roof .12b" (Eric Johnson is featured on this obscure steep classic in the film "Front Range Freaks") for a long--by Eldo standards anyway--memorable pitch. The landing at the start of this climb is bad and the moves a bit cryptic, so without a few pads and a spotter or two TR rehearsal's not a bad idea. If you link the start with "Rough Roof" you can create an anchor off some mid-size cams and wires to lower back to the ground (but someone will eventually have to clean the pitch on TR and walk off left on the huge ledge above). Also, linking the two pitches probably warrants 2 stars.


    Small to midsize cams.

    Comments on Phee-nix Add Comment
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    By slevin
    Oct 24, 2007

    From talking with a few people who have done this, Phee Nix does not step in from Flakey Floont on the right, but begins with the boulder problem start described above, i.e. you climb directly into the corner from below (good hold for right, reach left to OK hold, reach right high to sloper, shallow pocket, better pocket, bucket). I still need to ask Mike Brooks (FA) about it, but I know David Light led the bouldery start in the late 1980s after he worked it on TR a bit. On toprope this felt like 5.12a to me.
    By topher donahue
    May 13, 2014

    Led this onsight with a couple terrified spotters in about 2001. Probably an irresponsible way to do it, but since there seems to be a new history of the route, it seemed worth mentioning. Climbs more like a highball V4 with a 5.10 finish than a 5.12.

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