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08. Iceberg Area
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Iceberg Arete T 
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Phat Back S 
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Phat Back 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wayne, Chuck, and Ralph
Page Views: 294
Submitted By: P. Sully on Sep 13, 2011  with updates from Ralph Robertson and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Phat back

Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Blunt arete with (3 bolts) to a two bolt anchor on front side of iceberg. Start on right side of low roof and climb up left angling ramp/flake. you can place nuts here as first bolt is at top of this feature. Climb arete past first bolt then step right at 2nd bolt to face. climb face past 3rd bolt to two bolt anchor with rap rings.
there is an erroneous bolt with no hanger on the optional boulder problem direct start through roof (5.9+).

This route now has 5 bolts. Two bolts were added to make this a sport route; as it seems the newer generation of climbers have no nuts

Location 

Front side of iceburg as you approach the cliff. rappel via fixed slings on tree or off shuts at top of chuck's route.

Protection 

med stoppers, 5 bolts to anchors with rings.


Photos of Phat Back Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost at the top! Two bolts at the top.
Almost at the top! Two bolts at the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Phat Back (Wayne's Arete)
BETA PHOTO: Phat Back (Wayne's Arete)

Comments on Phat Back Add Comment
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By The Farley
From: Idaho Springs
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A two bolt anchor with rap rings is on the route replacing the old studs at the top.
By Gavin Bailey
From: Yosemite National Park
May 21, 2016

This climb now has 5 bolts to two bolted anchors. awesome warm-up for the harder sport leads in this area.
By P. Sully
May 22, 2016

so this has been retro bolted? who got permission from the FA party to add bolts to this route?

Why add bolts to this short climb?

It was already a great lead - all you needed was a few stoppers to get to the first bolt. The climbing through this section is 5.5 at most. Weak and unnecessary retro bolting IMHO
By Jay Shultis
Administrator
From: Oneonta, NY
Jul 21, 2016

That's too bad. Paul, do you know the FA on this one?

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