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Phasers on Stun 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: Bob Ewing on Nov 5, 2013

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Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first 30 feet is the same as Sugar & Spice, an easy walk up a ramp. The last 20 feet is a fun and pumpy flake that angles left and faces right. The Kochte Climb Maryland! book has it at 5.3, but I think it's arguably harder than Gap of Rohan (which gets a 5.6), so I'm logging it at least at 5.5.

Location 

This route starts on the right side of the main White Rock face. I'll add some pictures soon in case you don't have the Climb Maryland! guidebook.

Protection 

The flake takes cams and hexes in the #2-#4 BD cam range. Build an anchor at the summit to belayer your partner up.


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