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Phase III 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA Pat Munn and Dave Hough, 7/75 FFA Gary Allan, Tom Schwarm, and Dave Hough
Page Views: 2,218
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 24, 2007  with updates from Luc-514

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Big, mean, and foreboding--Phase III delivers the goods in one nasty pitch of body-thrutching hatred. Put on your ratty dungarees, tape up, and send.

    Phase III begins to the right of Son of a Mother in the obvious off-width crack, and continues for 90 feet in the same crack. The crux comes--like many routes on this cliff--at about 2/3 height. It involves moving through an overhanging corner sans discernible feet.

    Finish up easier terrain to chain anchors.

    Mother's Day Variation (5.9+, PG): Once at the first roof, Climb through the roof via the right-facing flake and continue up the flake of "Son of a Mother."


    The left side of the cliff. At the height of the climbers trail, go left about 100 yards and locate the obvious offwidth of Phase 3.


    A nice size rack with several #2, #3, and #4 Camalots.

    Photos of Phase III Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bastard
    BETA PHOTO: Bastard
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jake Hadden leading the route at a crux section......
    Jake Hadden leading the route at a crux section......

    Comments on Phase III Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Oct 22, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This is a really cool route (if you enjoy OW). A little OW technique will keep you from grunting too much.
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Jul 10, 2011
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    A rack from .3-#1 C4 size plus double BD 3s and a BD 3.5 worked pretty well for me on this. The second roof and the corner leading up to it is really a 3.5 size crack. 3 is just a little wide and I think a 4 would be hard to fit in. Double 3.5 would have been ideal.

    I feel like it's more a wide-hands to fist crack at the crux than off-width?
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jul 10, 2011


    I agree about it being wide hands rather than off-width. I'm going to be over there a couple days this week, so I'll have to get back on it to see which way I quiver my way up it!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Jul 12, 2011

    To me, off-width means "larger than fists". If you have small hands, then this qualifies. Otherwise, it's "off-hands", meaning cups or fists. Whatever -- it's splitting hairs. Suffice to say that it's an awkward size and protects well with 3" - 4" cams.
    By Jeffrey Gagliano
    From: Pennsburg, PA
    Jul 8, 2012

    This climb is a sick exercise of strenuous & insecure lay-backs and fist-jams. No OW section to be found anywhere on it. 3 #4's and 2 #3 camelots help.
    By Daniel Israel
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 21, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I found I needed a lot of #3 camalots for the crux section, #4s would immediately get overcammed and there was a jammed #4 camalot. The end didn't protect well after the crux from what I remember, plus being so pumped, it was scary. My fist fit well sideways, thumbs down and twisting. Really cool route, a bit scary had I known I would need to slide my #3 up with me as I climbed :s
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Lyme, NH
    May 6, 2016

    Awesome off hands/large fist splitter corner. As mentioned, no true off width moves. Deserves more stars and more traffic. The old BD 3.5 cam would probably be the best fit. I imagine this would be a cruise if you have large hands! I was surprised by how aesthetic and classic this pitch was!

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