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Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Frost, Yvon Chouinard, and Ken Weeks (1959)
Page Views: 1,611
Submitted By: Bryan G on Oct 11, 2011

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At crux of route

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Pharaoh's Beard is a small exfoliation flake propped up against the Sentinel Creek Wall. It is located a couple hundred yards uphill and to the right of Manana. The Regular Route is a historic climb that doesn't get done much these days. Like most climbs at Sentinel Creek it's in the shade until the afternoon, and the second half of the route is always in the shade.

The route begins on the right side of the formation. Jam your way up easy flakes to reach a tree. Monkey your way through the tree and climb a fun clean offwidth to a ledge with an old piton anchor.

The next pitch climbs the right side of a flake and then you step left into a corner. Move to the left side of Pharaoh's Beard and climb some chossy flakes to a tree. You can belay here if you want or link this with the 3rd pitch if the rope drag's not too bad.

Claw your way through the tree (this one's much more difficult than the first) and enter a chimney. Pass a chockstone and then tunnel up behind the last portion of the formation to the summit.

Rappel the route with one 70m rope. The summit anchors are new bolts. The rap station at the top of pitch 1 belongs in a museum and consists of a 1/4" bolt, 2 pitons (all over 50 years old!) and a fixed nut that I added in 2011.


From Manana, skirt the base to the right on a faint trail. Then head uphill in a gully and keep trending up and right until you come to a boulder filled clearing. At this point you will see Pharaoh's Beard and an easy scramble will lead to the base.


Single set of cams to 5".

Photos of Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pharaoh's Beard
BETA PHOTO: Pharaoh's Beard
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the climb
Approaching the climb

Comments on Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route Add Comment
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By Mark P Thomas
From: Draper
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for adding the nut! That anchor is a little sketchy. 5.8 OW was pretty fun & the summit is really cool.

Also, this climb gets a lot of shade so it is good on a hot day. Last weekend there is a nice snowmelt waterfall next to the Mitten, which was very nice to splash in once the sun started to shine on us.
By Ed Henicle
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Oct 12, 2015

You will be happier with a #5 and a #6 for P1...
By Andy W
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 2, 2017

Shiny new rap anchors at P1 belay. Great climb that just needs more traffic to clean it up and break in the approach trail. Trees on P1 are no issue, but someone should bring some tree snips for the trees up high. Fun top out, albeit awkward belay, with great views of El Cap across the way.

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