Phantom Staircase Left
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Paul on the 5.8 Phantom Staircase Left
This climb is a very continuous face climb from bottom to top if you stay clear of the arete on the left side. Good footwork and balance are required which makes this a very good practice climb.
After going under the old bridge, veer to the right about 30' to the top of an obvious flat topped rock with a small tree near the edge. Two bolts left of the tree can be used to protect the Phantom Staircase face. Longer slings are needed to clear the edge making it for a difficult rappel. Really make an effort to stack coils of rope and throw the rope out clear of the rock to reach the bottom otherwise you may find the rope hung up on ledges out of reach when you walk down. Although there is a class 5 descent about 30' right (facing rock), an easy walk down can be found 100' right (facing rock).
This route can only be toproped.
By Alex Curtis
From: Rexburg, ID
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
There are three climbs that share the same bolts on top for TRing. Sometimes it is tough to tell where the routes are in this case. Me and my buddy climbed all three of these routes and discovered that this route must be very far left to the point that you are either hugging the corner rock found about 3/4 of the way up or possibly on the other side of this corner, where there are a few more positive holds. This is the only placement of the route we could see that would maintain its 5.8 rating. Climbing on the right side of the corner would surely make this a 5.9+ or 5.10-.
By Chase Rider
From: Littleton, CO
Aug 4, 2012
I found the crux above the horizontal crack on top of Fine Line. It was a thin, slab route. Easy toprope access.