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Phantom Creek Trail T 

Phantom Creek Trail 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad, Alpine
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: September 1, 1923
Page Views: 2,643
Submitted By: bill urbanski on Oct 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Simply Amazing.


Trail to Mystic Lake (7600') covers ~3 miles and ~1300' in elevation gain. Hike down to Mystic Lake to meet up with Phantom Creek Trail, turning left at cairn. Follow trail to "Switchbacks from Hell" (26 total, gaining ~2500' in <3 miles) to massive cairn above treeline. Continue upward to Froze-to-Death Plateau, a gradually sloping plateau ranging from 10,500' - 12,000'. Traverse FTD Plateau (route finding is difficult in barren area as no dedicated trail exists) to highcamp west of Tempest Mountain (~11,600').

Climb above highcamp to crest near large rock/wind shelters. Descend to saddle; class 3/4 scramble up other side staying just left of and high on ridge line. Cross snow/dirt bridge and begin climbing chimneys to another ridge. Slight downclimb/scramble towards final face. Class 4/5 moves up towards "keyhole" after which you will see the summit block. 3-4 rap stations for quicker decsent.


some extra webbing/slings to set up belay across some highly exposed areas (if desired), and to back up anchors for rappel

Photos of Phantom Creek Trail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Visitors at camp.
Visitors at camp.
Rock Climbing Photo: Standing atop Granite Peak's summit block
Standing atop Granite Peak's summit block

Comments on Phantom Creek Trail Add Comment
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By Scott Stevenson
From: SLC, Utah
Nov 22, 2014

Really fun beginner Alpine route. We soloed up and rapped down. I would say that once you cross the snow bridge its about 6-8 pitches of 4th class with some easy 5th class moves above exposure. We did 5 rappels back to the snow bridge. Absolutely fantastic mountain and range!!
By Conlin Ritter
Sep 7, 2016

What kind/length of rope is necessary for the rappels?
By bill urbanski
From: Kingston, PA
Sep 9, 2016

I used 60m, which is almost twice the length needed for most of the rap stations (there are about 5-6 of them). To cut down on weight I used my 1/2 rope (8.5mm) rather than my regular 10.2mm rock climbing rope.
By Scott Stevenson
From: SLC, Utah
Jan 30, 2017

I second what Bill said. We used a 60m rope, but had lots extra... I'd guess a 8.5mm, 70m cut in half would be perfect.
By Rob Runkle
Jun 1, 2017

Would a 30m rope be enough for the rappels? I have a 30m Gym rope and would much rather bring that, versus my 60m.
By JonBates
From: cody, wy
Sep 5, 2017

60m is overkill and 30m will require some fairly technical down climbing. I've done it with a 30m tag line to go with another 30m rope and with a 40m rope. Down climbing "the pitch" kinda sucks.

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