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Phantom Crag

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Fearful Symmetry 
Malignant Mushroom T 
Rainbow Serpent 
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Phantom Crag Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 1,527
Administrators: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Feb 21, 2013

52° | 37°

53° | 38°

58° | 39°

62° | 40°

65° | 40°

47° | 37°
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Simon cruising up the final meters of Rainbow Serp...


The huge walls of Phantom Crag can be seen to the Northwest as you drive into the Devil's Gap. The classic routes Malignant Mushroom, Sunshine, and Aquarius, can be found on the lower cliff band. These routes are south facing, so they will be some of the first to become sun affected as the season wears on. This is especially true of Sunshine, as it gets sun most of the day. And since they are all easily accessible from the parking area, it is not uncommon to see multiple parties on these routes, especially on weekends.

Getting There 

From the bottom of the Big Hill, head across the flats and take a left on a well-defined track on a berm. Before the end of the berm, turn of to the right and drive along side, in order to avoid a steep, rutted drop-off at the end. At the end of the berm, turn right, then left (toward South Ghost) for a short way, and then right on a well-traveled track that takes you into the Devil's Gap. Continue to a signed parking area at the Banff Park Boundary. It is illegal to drive past this point.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Phantom Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantom Crag:
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   
Fearful Symmetry   WI6     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phantom Crag

Featured Route For Phantom Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Aquarius

Aquarius WI4  North America : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
Aquarius is an excellent route that can be done in one long pitch. 60m ropes will barely reach! The route is straight forward WI4 climbing, and has one bit of vertical ice that goes on for about 5m. As the season wears on, the top of the route gets more and more sun and will melt out first. It can still be climbed with 4 or 5 meters of bare rock showing, and can be protected on the left with a #3 camalot. The bowl at the top of the route is Recital Hall, and you'll be able to see Fearf...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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