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Phantom Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fearful Symmetry 
Malignant Mushroom T 
Rainbow Serpent 
Unsorted Routes:

Phantom Crag Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Feb 21, 2013
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Simon cruising up the final meters of Rainbow Serp...


The huge walls of Phantom Crag can be seen to the Northwest as you drive into the Devil's Gap. The classic routes Malignant Mushroom, Sunshine, and Aquarius, can be found on the lower cliff band. These routes are south facing, so they will be some of the first to become sun affected as the season wears on. This is especially true of Sunshine, as it gets sun most of the day. And since they are all easily accessible from the parking area, it is not uncommon to see multiple parties on these routes, especially on weekends.

Getting There 

From the bottom of the Big Hill, head across the flats and take a left on a well-defined track on a berm. Before the end of the berm, turn of to the right and drive along side, in order to avoid a steep, rutted drop-off at the end. At the end of the berm, turn right, then left (toward South Ghost) for a short way, and then right on a well-traveled track that takes you into the Devil's Gap. Continue to a signed parking area at the Banff Park Boundary. It is illegal to drive past this point.

Climbing Season

For the Alberta area.

Weather station 9.4 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Phantom Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phantom Crag:
Rainbow Serpent   WI6     Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   
Malignant Mushroom   WI5     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   
Fearful Symmetry   WI6     Ice, 1 pitch, 180'   
Aquarius   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phantom Crag

Featured Route For Phantom Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Serpent

Rainbow Serpent WI6  North America : Canada : ... : Phantom Crag
A spectacular route that completely forms only occasionally. If it's in, get on it! Either start at the base of a shield of ice below the route or start at the base of the free standing pillar. Climb the vertical, sustained pillar to a comfortable belay below the overhangs. The second (crux) pitch follows the line of least resistance (either right or left) around the overhangs to a long sustained pillar that leads to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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