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Zone, The 

Phantom Crack? 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,015
Submitted By: atp on Feb 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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last 20'

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starting on left side of the merging two cracks, work through a series of O/W and hand cracks to reach the top.

Location 

While on the central oaks trail go through underpass then look up and right.

Protection 

small-large cams


Photos of Phantom Crack? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: changing angles
changing angles
Rock Climbing Photo: starting left side
starting left side

Comments on Phantom Crack? Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark K
Feb 16, 2012

I'm pretty sure this is Phantom Crack (5.9), FA'd b.i.t.d.
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Feb 16, 2012

Interesting I wouldn't be suprised its already been climbed :)
The locals I've asked didn't know of any established climbs in that area and I didn't see any signs of a trail to get there or any of the other climbs near it and it wasn't exactly a boulder you just walk up to. As for 5.9, if thats true then woodson reached a new level of sandbag...
By dtomczik
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 17, 2012

I don't believe that this is Phantom Crack. However, I do believe this crack was climbed prior to your ascent. Nonetheless, nice job getting out there and then actually climbing it. It's a pretty neat clump of boulders out there.
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Feb 18, 2012

Thanks, ya it was a bit of work getting a usable trail through there!
Well I have no problem updating information on this climb if there is proof to show, I've talked to ron amick and he wasn't aware of anything there, greg horvath said there might be but he's still looking into it. I've looked in the san diego county guide and also Keith Brueckners woodson guide (not that they have everything in there) and didn't find anything (although phantom looked in the same direction) I'll continue to search for correct information and make changes if needed.

Thanks for the help and let me know if you find something
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 27, 2012

new level of sandbag eh? ever been on Fall Semester? : )
Andrew, looks like it still fits with Brueckners guide description (excepting the grade apparently). Horizontal from Big Mac, 4 star climb, hands/ squezze... 5.9 ish lol
I'll keep tinkering around, but it seems like a match.
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Feb 28, 2012

Nope i haven't tried fall semester but it looks tough from the pic. I feel i've done a few woodson 5.9s to say its harder than that, I could see 5.10 for woodson maybe , but the question is where is big mac?...
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Jun 4, 2012

I've been trying to figure out where phantom is and just can't put my finger on it. After some thought I changed the name and grade so as to keep respect for the climber who did FA phantom in case this was that route. Its still a great route and would encourage people to try and maybe we can get some consensus.
By erikr
Jun 4, 2012

What a coincidence I stumble across this a day after you post. To go to Phantom Crack go to the summit. On the north side of the road is the triangle shaped boulder under the pines. Just west of this boulder, maybe 40', go straight down the hill. The first boulder you hit on the left has a couple of aid climbs at least one of which will go free. From there you can see the Phantom Crack Boulder's backside, down hill and slightly right. Heading east from Phantom Crack there is a miniature version of Greg's Crack but lickeny and left side in, just after that there is a slab with a faint white dike which might deserve some bolts.

Edit, I have a map- it is #19. Greg should have the text which goes with it
maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=2...
By atp
From: Clairemont Mesa, CA
Jun 5, 2012

Rock Climbing Photo: KB's 87 guide
KB's 87 guide


Rock Climbing Photo: phantom crack
phantom crack


I'm not to familar with the summit area, but that link you have looks like alot of work in mapping all those climbs.

It seems like the climb you mentioned #19 and this climb here are pretty far apart, this 87 guide says from longs crack (seminar wall area)you can reach big mac and from big mac you can reach phantom (in the picture above #21)... what do you think? maybe the 87 guide is not accurate?
By erikr
Jun 5, 2012

Very far apart. I think-
A- I have never explored this area.
B- haven't looked at this topo in a long time and made a poor assumption.
C- Am not even sure where I ever heard of Phanton Crack or why I decided I had found it.
D- The north slope burned and was completely clear in the early? 60's and has gotten thicker and thicker since.
E- That crack could be anywhere between Big Mac (which I'm not familiar with) and The Schoolyard.
F- If you want to climb a tall arching flare with splitter hands in the back and the other 3 climbs I mentioned... I would be happy to belay and can bring a drill for the thin dike up the center of a steep slab.