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Phallus

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Phallus T 

Phallus Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Apr 7, 2003
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Description 

Another Classic needles spire. It would be climbed more if people knew how to get to it.

Getting There 

The Phallus is on the Northeast and downhill side of Picture rock. It is basically right behind (east) picture rock. You can either walk up hill from the Catherderal Spires parking lot or descend from the top from picture rock. The classic route starts on the North side just below picture rock at the obvious crack system.

Climbing Season

For the Tenpins/Switchbacks area.

Weather station 5.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Phallus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Phallus:
Phallus   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Phallus

Featured Route For Phallus

Phallus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  South Dakota : Custer State Park : ... : Phallus
Climb chimney farthest from Cathedral Spires parking lot (could get a #4 or 5?) up left to big flakes/horns, belay there, then down and left to seam/crack protected with nuts and pins, then up to summit. One rope descent....[more]   Browse More Classics in South Dakota

Comments on Phallus Add Comment
Show which comments
By SThal
From: Logan, UT
Jul 15, 2011
Climb chimney farthest from Cathedral Spires parking lot (could get a #4 or 5?) up left to big flakes/horns, belay there, then down and left to seam/crack protected with nuts and pins, then up to summit. One rope descent. There is a bolt on this one and rappel anchors. Very fun.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 16, 2012
Grade: 5.8

First ascent: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Mark Powell, Don Lauria, August 1965

The only bolt placed was for rappelling.
By R.Walters
Jul 22, 2012
Yet another gem of a Bob Kamps route. I remember being gripped and I clipped the bolt, which I now understand to be a retro job.

Rich, do you happen to know if there is any truth to the the guidebook anecdote about the FA? Apparently Kamps didn't like the rap bolt that was drilled so they used Lauria as a counterweight backup (webbing around his wrists?) for the first 3 rappels. Must have drawn the short straw.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 4, 2013
I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible.

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