REI Community
search
Air Spire
Select Route:
Aimless Foreshadowing  T,TR 
Air S 
Chucklehead Crack T 
Phallus in Wonderland T,S 
Return of the Chucklehead's T 
Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 

Phallus in Wonderland 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Aaron Stetzer
Page Views: 4,034
Submitted By: Corey Morris on Jun 4, 2009  with updates from Keaton Miller

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Tunnel at the end of pitch 1. Look for it above an...

Description 

P1. For those who want to do an "Air" variation... Start on "Air" then climb to 3rd bolt. Climb about 6 feet higher, look left and see a keyhole cave. Go through it to a set of 2 bolt anchors immediately to the right after emerging from it. Put a piece high in cave to help with rope drag. It's fun. 5.6

P2: Take chimney to the top. Look for two bolt anchors slightly to the right (north) at the top. You can rappel to base just barely with a 60m rope. Tie knots on the ends and aim just right of the tree on 4th class ledges when you toss your rope. 5.6/7

Protection 

Draws and larger cams for second pitch.


Photos of Phallus in Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to enter the tunnel
About to enter the tunnel
Rock Climbing Photo: This line is the chimney on the far right of the p...
BETA PHOTO: This line is the chimney on the far right of the p...

Comments on Phallus in Wonderland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradiban
Jul 1, 2010

Ah, I get it. This shares the 1st pitch anchors with "Spikes Crack" after exiting the tunnel. Cool.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Sam Houston, TX
Jul 16, 2010

Yes-sir...Nick, if you feel that the beta I give on any of these routes I've added are vague or mis-leading...IM me...Freddy and I put chain, shackle, and screw link equalized on the top of the second pitch of this climb on our second outing this last spring. Upon climbing it on the first outing...we found the that the sling that used to be up there was cut and left there...this really sucked to rap off of one bolt, so we added chain...wanted to leave biners up there but decided not to as they might walk away...probably gonna rig the the anchors at pitch one with the same setup as long as the top stays the same way we left it on our second outing. I dunno why someone would cut that sling. I think the second pitch is quite fun...squeeze chimney to 5.6/7 that kinda makes you think before commiting the next move...

Probably gonna do the same to "Air" as well will beefier 3/8 HD transport chain since its such a trade route. Just wanna keep things as safe as they can be.
By Tradiban
Jul 17, 2010

Slings are bad to leave as perm anchors, can look intact but bust with a tug after a months of sun exposure. Someone probably thought the slings were unwise and cut it. I am planning on putting some chains on the first anchors next time I'm up, the red slings there looked bad.

The tunnel is so cool, I was awestruck when I realized it went all the way through.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Sam Houston, TX
Jul 17, 2010

We are not the ones who originally equiped these routes with anchors...I agree that leaving webbing is not a good system and the only time I have done this is in the Needles. The old system on top had the lower hanger with a screw link and the upper had tubular webbing with a screw link equalized with the lower...Even if its old and crappy, felt better having both to rap instead of one even in the condition that it was but thats just me. It seems remiss to cut it and take the screwlink and just leave the webbing on top but maybe thats just my hangup...We simply added chain to the top to mitigate safety issues...cool routes nonetheless!
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
May 7, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just climbed this route yesterday, really cool tunnel. Watch for loose rock when entering the tunnel I noticed a few pieces that were sketchy. Fun route!
By Dylan B.
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

It's be nice if there were quicklinks and/or chains on the bolts at the end of the first pitch.
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Sam Houston, TX
Oct 10, 2013

OK, I'll equip it when I come home on leave in Nov...and it will be shackles and chain...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About