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Phallus DiabolI (part 2) 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Sep 29, 2012

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A route peppered with many cruxes and good rests, Phallus Diaboll offers many exciting moves, and an easy warm up as you climb the 5.9 first half. After the first anchors, do a balancy move with your left hand hugging the corner and then lunge out to the right. A techy midway crux leads to good holds and a shake below the large roof. Then, work the tufa until you get a good pocket and reach way out to the right tufa (a full span for me) and then hit a good pocket in the center of the wall, very powerful! Next comes the redpointing crux, a hard clip followed by two desperately big moves. A very fun and energetic route that requires good technique and endurance.


Continuation of Phallus Diaboll



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