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Peyote Power 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Shade all day
Page Views: 3,867
Submitted By: meo on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Climbing partner since 1989, clay volmer

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


We did only three pitches so feel free to add on. All three pitches we're very long. I would recommend a 70 m rope for leading. If you use a 60 you will need every inch to reach the belays especially on pitch 2 and 3. Pitch 2 is quite good and protects well enough. Pitch 3 wanders up a beautiful black varnish face. Protection not obvious. Had to sling some horns for lack of anything else. Super long pitch.
Take 2 ropes to rappel all stations are bolted.


Pine Creek Canyon 100 ft. right of Dark Shadows. Begin on a large ledge.


Standard rack to a # 3 Camelot. Placed many wired nuts. Bring many runners for long pitches.

Photos of Peyote Power Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of the Pitch 2 chains (climbers) as seen ...
BETA PHOTO: Location of the Pitch 2 chains (climbers) as seen ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 follows the middle of the dark varnish.   ...
Pitch 3 follows the middle of the dark varnish. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: A good climb. There's the Jonny on Peyote Power.  ...
A good climb. There's the Jonny on Peyote Power. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: pitch 2 of peyote power
pitch 2 of peyote power
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up pitch 2
looking up pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 3
Looking up pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up pitch 2
Coming up pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up pitch 1. Pass roof on the right go past...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 1. Pass roof on the right go past...

Comments on Peyote Power Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 21, 2017
By marc rosenthal
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I would disagree with the 5.9 rating. Although pitches are long, there is adequate pro and hardest moves on the climb are 5.8, unless you are off route. Traversing right from the top of pitch 1 there is an easy ledge system that angles right. Follow this straight up to the top of pitch 2. If you don't go far enough to the right, the moves are closer to 5.9-5.10. Pitch 3 is the money pitch. The route supposedly goes on for two or more pitches per the FA leader.

It is possible to do another pitch or two going left from the top of pitch 3, but there are no bolted stations above.

Beware on the descent; ropes seem to catch on this route. Suggested tie off for two ropes EDK, which allows the knot to ride up.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 20, 2009

There's a lot of good climbing on this route; Pitches 2 and 3 are outstanding. A 70 meter rope is not necessary. Pitch 2 uses all of a 60 meter and pitch 3 all but about 5 ft. All the other pitches are shorter. Careful pro placements and long slings will allow a 60 meter rope to make it and will also help minimize rope drag. Pro on pitch 3 was adequate at the crux, a short steep section fairly rated at 5.9. The first four pitches have bolted anchors.

A question for those who have climbed the fifth pitch - The guide book says: Face climb right, past a bolt, to a trough/crack which is followed past a roof to an anchor at the base of a rounded white rib. We went out right from the belay at the top of pitch 4 but never saw a bolt, or a trough/crack. There was a crack through a roof (more of a bulge), but no rounded white rib and no anchor to be found.

The rest of the route description (Handren Guide) was right on. Can anyone help us solve this mystery?
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Oct 10, 2010

Came up a litte short on pitch 2 using a 60 meter, had to simul climb.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 15, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This route is very good and certainly worthy of more attention. The description for pitch 5 is confusing and we also screwed up and missed the bolt on this pitch. I scoped it out on rappel and the description should read:

"P4 ends at a bolted anchor just right of a chimney. Climb out right from the belay to avoid some steeper rock, but then slant up left, aiming for the crack/groove that is the continuation of the chimney. A bolt is found just before re-entering the crack system."

Also, the bolted stations are placed to allow full-length rappels, but more comfortable belays can be arranged on ledges. Here's my recommendation.

P1a (90 ft): Climb seams to the right side of a roof and belay at a bolted anchor on a nice ledge.

P1b (120 ft): Move left to a R-facing corner and then climb right slanting cracks to a bolted anchor. Pass this anchor and climb 15 ft more to a ledge/scoop and belay from gear.

P2 (190 ft): Move to the right side of the ledge/scoop and climb a short R-facing flake to a thin crack that leads up a slab. Move slightly right to an obvious L-facing flake and follow this to bolts on the left. Skip these bolts and climb the steep face directly right of the anchors for 15 ft, then up a low angle corner that slants up right to a very comfortable ledge.

P3 (180 ft): Traverse back left from the nice belay ledge and start up the steep varnished face of the crux pitch. Follow the path of least resistance, moving L and R as needed and reach a bolted anchor when the angle eases.

P4 (170 ft): Climb straight up the face, passing a bolt that protects a cruxy slab move, to reach a bolted anchor just right of a chimney.

P5 (150 ft): See description/clarification above.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 16, 2011

Tom - Thank you! Two years later, mystery solved! We obviously stayed too far right on pitch five.
The suggestions on changing belay locations sound good. It would also help make pitch two less of a rope stretcher.
By Andrea Charest
Oct 14, 2014

Thanks for all of the previous comments-- I "guided" this route during an AMGA advanced rock guide course, and it was a fantastic route. To manage the terrain, I broke the first pitch into two per the above comments (using the first set of bolts at the top of pitch 1a, and passed the TWO side by side anchor stations for a belay on pitch 1b). The gear anchor and stance were stellar, and made getting to the next bolted anchor a little less of a rope stretcher.

On the final pitch (pitch 6), I placed about 3 pieces of good gear in the first 75 feet, and then moved smoothly through to find the bolts above-- but only found TWO bolts in the next 75' to the anchor, not three bolts as written in the Handren guide. Heady if 5.9 face climbing is your limit, but if you like single pad crimps, good feet, and fun, balancey face climbing, the last pitch is stellar to a bolted anchor.

We did the Dark Shadows descent instead of rapping the route, but the rap back down is very straightforward with 2 ropes.
By Katya gh
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The above pitch breakdown is spot on! Bring 2 60m, long slings to extend and reduce rope drag, follow the pitch breakdown above and you will have a very pleasant day esp if it is hot out there.This is a very soft 9 but the pro can be spacey on the crux pitch.
By Steve123
May 7, 2015

We climbed this route in early May 2015 using the described alternate
belays, but only climbed through pitch 3 due to time constraints. The day was hot, but this route was in the shade.

A few notes:
The ledge/scoop belay station for pitch 1B seemed to be closer to 30 feet above the pitch 1 chains rather than the 15 feet described. There was a ledge at 15 feet, but I would not describe it as a scoop, and being an extra 15 feet lower would have caused problems on pitch 2.

After climbing from the pitch 1B scoop to the alternate pitch 2 belay ledge, we had only 2 meters remaining of a 70-meter rope. Using a 60-meter rope would have required stopping at the P2 chains or simulclimbing.

The chains at the top of pitch 3 are hard to see from below until you are about 10 feet away.
By Serge Smirnov
Sep 16, 2016

P2 - I followed Tom Fralich's advice "Skip these bolts and climb ... to a very comfortable ledge". In retrospect, that was a mistake. P3 starts with a substantial leftward traverse, so a leader fall on P3 would have pulled the belayer sideways. It turns out that scenario has been studied, and the results were not good. Belaying from the bolted anchor would have been safer.
By Tacticool
From: Republic Of Korea
Oct 7, 2016

There are 5 bolts at the top of pitch one. One set has been there a while and has chains and rusty washers. Then there is a new bolt about 2 feet to the right of that and then another two bolts about two feet right of that. What the heck?

Preferred belaying from the chained anchor for pitch 3.
By cassondra long
Apr 4, 2017

Earl, the extra bolts were put in during a rescue a few years ago. It was quite the spectacle, with 13 SAR and a helicopter.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
May 21, 2017

Anchors have been added to this route with the endorsement of the first ascentionist. You can still pitch out the route as described in the guidebook but now you can rappel with a single 70m rope.

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