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Petzl Ergo's

Original Post
Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

I just picked up the ergos, (the new 2011 model) to finish up the mixed season up north and for dry tooling this summer. What are some of your thoughts, bitches moans on these tools? or let me know how awesome you think these are. Does it take a few sessions to get used to swinging them? did any of you switch out the dry pick for the ice or just stick to the dry and move ice like the titanic. I appreciate any info and I will post up my thoughts on these in a couple weeks when I ave had some time with them.
Thanks
Justin

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

These are the petzl first gen leashless tool (silver shaft, orange handle).

I used a pair for a few years till the nomic came out. They climb ice really well. The dry tool picks will work fine on ice, just not as well as the ice picks (they are thinner at the tip if I recall).

The only real complaint I ever had or heard was that the lower handle was a different angle from the upper shaft (secondary grip) which would cause the tool to shift when changing grips while dry tooling. That is what they addressed with the nomic's different handle alignment. It wasn't a big issue for me as I wasn't trying to climb hard M rating, but I did do more dry tooling with those tools than any other. You will learn to make them work, just watch the shift I mentioned. They are good tools.

PT.

Partly Animal · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

I think the tools paintrain is referring to are the original Ergos.
They had the silver shaft with the orange handles. I believe Justin is asking about the latest generation Ergos that came out late last year.

You've probably seen this already but for those who haven't there's some good info here: coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Party beat me to it.
I been using a pair since Dec. Cascade picks and weights for ice, mixed pick no weight for mixed.

They are awesome, literally everywhere. Many Nomic owners will be on them next season once they get a chance to climb on them.

If you have been on Petzl tools the swing won't bother you at all..same swing as a Quark or Nomic really...nothing strange to adapt to. Which everyone including me found hard to believe. I've written about them in more detail 2 or 3 times.

Great tool we'll all be hearing more about when they are back in circulaion this fall.

Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

Thanks everyone, I am talking about the new ergos. Thats awesome Dane tat the swing isnt that much different. That is hard to believe holding them in my hands. I am extremely looking forward to this weekend have a couple mixed routes up high I want to play on then a whole season of drytooling. I will post up how I like them. Any more tips are appreciated. Im gonna check out the your blog spot on them now Dane.
Thanks again.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Same swing as a Nomic or the Quarks?

I think you need to re evaluate that statement or perhaps actually climb on them .

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562
iceman777 wrote:Same swing as a Nomic or the Quarks? I think you need to re evaluate that statement or perhaps actually climb on them .
Maybe you should open your mind..or more likely climb on them yourself "iceman".

You climb on the old and new Quark, Nomic and Ergo do you?

I've been on the Ergo since Dec...and stand by that statement. Not just my sentiment btw but everyone that has used mine as well. YMMV of course. Just for clarity's sake that is me climbing with my own Ergos back in early Dec. '10.

Ergo on Grade 3 ice...in Hylite

"The Thrill Is Gone", Hylite

I have nothing to prove and don't get a rebate from Petzl. I write under my own name. Been on the Nomic a while and my prediction is the Ergo will replace the Nomic for most. Once the word gets out and the tools are available again. Simple reason...the Ergo is more versital than the Nomic. Helps to remember the Nomic was a pretty radical tool when it came out as well. No one thought (at least I didn't and it wasn't promoted that way) it would be useful anywhere besides hard mixed. Silly now in retrospect and where the tool has been on the last 5 years. The Ergo will prove many (including Petzl) wrong again. The Ergo is not just hard dry tool kit. Although no question it works there. It has been a long '10/11 ice season and it isn't over yet. I have used the Ergo on Canadian moderates like Polar Circus and real Grade 5s, in Hylite and on moderate mixed ice gullies in the Alps this winter.

Everyone that has borrowed my pair (over a dozen) has loved them, M4, M7 or M8, WI3 or WI6. As it gets steeper (rock or ice) they just get better. Personally I like them the best on in the same places I like the Nomic. I just like the Ergo better. Moderate alpine terrain like this is a hoot on the Ergo. As is steep, weird ice, like Curtain Call.

Curtain Call, in phat condition spring '10

For more detailed info on the Ergo a quick search here will help:

coldthistle.blogspot.com/

soloing with a Nomic
Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380
Dane wrote: Maybe you should open your mind..or more likely climb on them yourself "iceman".
Oh snap.
Brie Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 493

Iceman, Dane's site and his reviews are more informed, less bullshitty, and all around more helpful than any I've come across. As a hardcore everyman who gets out and does more than most any of us, his opinions on things mean more to me than just about any other blogger I've read, including the likes of Colin Haley and Will Gadd, seriously. He buys his own gear (well, just about everything that isn't a prototype), he knows what he's talking about, and he answers to no one in any gear company's public relations department.

Dane, you've got me really wishing it was possible to find a pair of Scarpa Phantom Ultras on this side of the pond, if only to try on. The Guides fit me well, but even if a company in the UK would ship to me, I'd be really nervous ordering a pair without putting them on my feet first.

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Hey Brian, thanks for the comments on the blog. Much appreciated. I take Colin's and Will's advice seriously, learned a bunch from both of them when I ask, even when I don't always agree with them.

FWIW I have had friends that are getting amazing service from these guys;

mountainboot.co.uk/

I'd ask...and probably will myself eventually.

They have gone way beyond what Scarpa NA will do...if SNA even answers the phone. (huge roll of the eyes) Although their Reps have all been awesome.

Seriously no BS on the Ultra if you like the Guide. I went with the same size and the Ultras were even better right out of the box. That while trying to choke down y buyer's remorse. I am hearing complaints about durability on both (warmth on the Ultra) but I'll likely get a second pair if something new doesn't pop up by the time I need them. But no half sizes.....if that is the case don't bother asking. I've even come to love them with a pair of factory stock Dartwins :)

Ultra and Dartwins @ 12K' in winter

Dave Rone · · Custer, SD · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 3,824

Ergo swings the same as the Nomic or Quark? Given the geometry of the Ergo tool, it isn't possible. The Ergo is better for hooking, the Nomic is better for swinging.

I've been on Nomics since they came out and climbed extensively on the Ergos this season. My experience is that the Nomic is the tool for routes that are mainly, or are all ice. The Ergo is much better for steep/overhanging dry-tooling on mixed routes, and hooking through steep cauliflower and mushroom ice.

Rone

Dane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 562

Hey Justin, I would be curious as to what you think of your new tools?

No arguement from me that the Ergos hook marginally better than the Nomic. What is important is the change in hand position when you do set the Ergo (by hook or swing). It is a stronger more horizontal grip angle than the vertical grip of the Nomic. But I still swing the Ergo just as I do a Nomic on less steep terrain.

"The Ergo is much better (than a Nomic) for steep/overhanging dry-tooling on mixed routes, and hooking through steep cauliflower and mushroom ice."

Agreed again. The Ergo was designed to climb vertical and over hanging terrain easier than the Nomic, so it would make sense.

Either way both are good tools and at the top of the pile.
Not the best pictures but hopefully this will give others some idea as to a comparison.

Second grip comparison

If you use the second grip as the primary as some will on moderate terrain the tools are very, very similar in angle.

shaft comaprison

When you look at a comparison of the full shaft, the length of the Nomic's pick is just extended out at a similar angle and more clearence is added to the shaft on the Ergo. The pick will hit the ice more quickly in the arc of the swing (or hook) on the Ergo. That early impact and "instant hook" because of the added clearence is what makes the Ergo so easy to climb vertical terrain. Having a better ergonomic position for the grip just allows you to hang on longer.

Both the Nomic and Ergo are if anything amazing hooking tools. Better used hooking than swinging on textured, steep cauliflower ice.
There the Ergo truely shines and betters the Nomic.

For really steep mixed the hooking and hand position also make the Ergo a better choice than the Nomic.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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