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6 - Finger Lickin' Area
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Petty Larceny 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, Ken Yager, Grant Hiskes, 1984
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Dec 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The entire route

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent crack for those just breaking in to the grade. Sometimes it is wet at the bottom, and partially sand filled higher up. Don't let this stop you. Pull through the crux at the bottom. Finger lock and jam your way to the top, then rappel from slings around a bush or walk off to the right.

Location 

This is the left of three cracks at the bottom of the Finger Lickin' area. The first to be reached on the approach trail.

Protection 

Single set of gear.


Photos of Petty Larceny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: GEAR BETA ALERT, Black Alien and Grey Metolius Off...
BETA PHOTO: GEAR BETA ALERT, Black Alien and Grey Metolius Off...

Comments on Petty Larceny Add Comment
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 18, 2010

I decked off this in '07 when a foot chip busted and my gear ripped a flake on the right (uninjured, thankfully). No temptations to stick gear behind that flake anymore, just bust the crux right off the ground and the locks open up to decent fingers at about 15'.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 10, 2012

A lead would be exciting for sure. I think a crash pad would be a smart call...
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
May 10, 2012

I would say this is NOT a great climb if your breaking into the grade. Deck potential on the hardest moves down low is not a good combination for a budding .11 leader.
By BFK
From: San Francisco
Apr 9, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Enjoyable route with a bouldery start finishing with some great casual jamming. If you're tall you can place some small pieces at the base of the crack while still in the left crack to protect the crux moves.
By benkraft Kraft
From: San Francisco, California
Feb 17, 2015

tr'd because of the comments here, but at 5'10" i could reach a good red or yellow c3 in the pin scar undercling while standing on solid feet out left.
By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
May 4, 2015

Small nuts protect the beginning well. Placing a nut in the start of the finger crack was kinda a reach (I'm 5'9) but I never thought the route unsafe. Fun route once you get past all the dirt.

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