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Petticoat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: S. Kimball, D. Snively, and B. Gillett, 1999.
Season: Faces West/Northwest. Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Ross leading Petticoat, 10/30/16.

Description 

This is a delicate and technical route from the bottom up. The crux lies somewhere in the lower half, but where depends upon the climber's style.

The Gillett book suggests that there is a fixed stopper on the route in the long but moderate runout between the 3rd and 4th bolts (ground-fall possible), but there is not presently one there. I would have been happier were I carrying some cams or stoppers from 3/4" - 2" and placed some gear.

Location 

This route is the obvious and only bolted line starting from the ground on the west side of the North-facing arete, a relative low point of the rock. The trail leads up to this area. A good base below it is gained by hiking around to the south and up, or ducking under a boulder and going through on the North side of the arete.

The route goes up past 3 bolts, crosses a wide crack (Thunderstruck) at a chockstone, and runs it out up and left to gain a line of 3 more bolts.

The ledge on top bears an obvious anchor. One can rap from that, or continue for 2 more pitches to the summit on the upper 1/2 of Magnum PI, which is 5.9+ "adventure climbing."

Protection 

6 draws to a 2 bolt anchor with no cord or chain. A cordelette is nice to have up top, and if you plan to bail off after 1 pitch, you'll be leaving something behind to rap from- cord & biners or links.

The (very) long runout on 5.7 climbing between bolts 3 and 4 can be virtually eliminated with 3/4"-2" cams or stoppers.


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By George Bracksieck
Oct 31, 2016

The halfway mark on my 70m rope had passed through my belay device by the time Ross reached the two-bolt anchor. Sufficient rope lay on the ground when I rapped. Cams and stoppers thinner than 3/4 inches were placed, along with gear wider than 3/4 inches.

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