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Jon giving it a go!
Get situated on the high starting holds, a small cluster of pockets, and power through the short overhanging crux. Most people will want to stickclip the first bolt. A few more moves of lesser difficulty get you over a bulge and out of the pumpy terrain. Fun and interesting jug pulling will take you to the top.
Somewhere between African Herbman and Crimp Scampi. There will likely be a pile of cheater stones at the base.
5 bolts, bolted anchor
By Daniel Siegel
From: Portola, CA
May 15, 2013
Looking to grab an easy 5.12 redpoint? This is your route. One move wonder. I'm curious to know if it is doable without the cheater blocks to start.
By Zane Winter
1 day ago
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Someone is definitely working a ground-up variation. There was chalk on the crimp and bad sloper rail. Looks awful, but the beta is obvious.