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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Great 4 pitch route that has everything from a squeeze chimney to a slab crux!
P1: 5.10+ Head up blocky terrain into a OW section with face holds around it, continue on hand crack to fixed pin and and a slab move busting left past 1 bolt to a belay stance.30m
P2: 5.10+ Short boulder problem off belay tips piece nice. Continue up and right thin back left on steep terrain couple med sized pieces, Cool bear hug crux. Couple more short cruxs in route to a nice belay ledge.20m
P3: 5.11 Crux of route for many this pitch climbs out the right side of the huge roof feature above. Make a balancey step off boulder into a tips crack, head out roof via hand jams and trad funk! Long runners super nice on first couple pieces. Once at the lip of the roof two options are encountered, first is the easier way, but you need to have your gear trim or you will not fit. Is to enter the bottom of chimney and finish inside. Second choice is lay backing or wedging up out side of chimney not recommended. 20m
P4: 5.10 This pitch is right out of red rocks, make thin face climbing moves in route to a splitter hand crack, once crack finishes make a face move right to a left facing flake crack feature which takes you to the rim! 25m
Locate Fixe Ring Anchors below a little step. 3 routes left of this section of cliffs arete feature.
Make 4 30 meter raps to ground, last rap to ground is a long 30 meter rap. Route starts up a left facing corner system no bolts. Just left of "Sexy Beast" first sport pitch.
#.2- 2 camalot (1)
#3 camalot (2)
set nuts small to medium
Mar 14, 2017
If you are adventurous enough to find it I would highly recomend it! Beware of poor placements and loose rock on first pitch. Also if you doubble rap from the top you can run the risk of getting your rope stuck. Would recomend a fixed 70m from the top to get you down to the top of the first pitch and then rap a 70m to the base.