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The Three Penguins
Select Route:
Anorexia T 
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 
Petrified Bear's Dick 
Right Chimney T 

Petrified Bear's Dick 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

   
Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Margie Floyd, Maryann Loehr, April , 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 948
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 4, 2007

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Party on the summit. Photo; Todd Gordon collecti...

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This climb ascents the opposite side of the rock as the Right Chimney Route....as the crack system goes all the way through to the other side. The climb starts out at a steep bulge (on rotten rock too!), then goes into a wide section for miles. It's not a very good route...(They all can't be classics!)....but we did it anyways;... we were curious about it;...it's quite obvious a line. what makes it suck even more, is that the Right Chimney route is so GOOD, and it's just around the corner.....I doubt if this climb has seen a 2nd ascent.....(It don't hurt my feelings that this climb is un-loved...)...We did it in two pitches...break up "the fun.!"...I believe I used a pin or two at the start...maybe I left them...I can't remember......(sorry...). The route name is better than "the Right Chimney", and we got it from a visit to Lin Ottenger's Rock shop in Moab... he just HAD to show us a (you guessed it...) petrified Bear's dick.

    Location 

    backside of the Three Penguins.

    Protection 

    Maybe a few pins, and some wide pieces to slide along up the OWth.


    Photos of Petrified Bear's Dick Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Three Penguins.  Photo;  Todd Gordon collection.
    Three Penguins. Photo; Todd Gordon collection.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Comfy belay top pitch one    (Who wants to hang in...
    Comfy belay top pitch one (Who wants to hang in...

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