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Sky Top
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Petey's Spare Rib 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1952
Page Views: 1,554
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bradley, my 9 year old, blasting up the climb!

While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A wonderful route that zig-zags back and forth over an arete, with thin, facey moves and not too many of the classic Gunks jugs. I found the route rather sustained, but there is a very obvious crux section above gear. This route is not a good one for a 5.5 leader; it's devious, with questionable footholds and lots of smearing throughout. In the guidebook at 5.4 PG***, I'd give it a 5.5.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack up to #3 Camalot. Pro is PG. There is a new rappel anchor at the very top - but you need two ropes to rappel off (route is 120 feet). Another rap anchor is to be installed half-way down, but might not yet have been placed.


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By BIG Climber
From: Irvine, CA
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13

Climbed this today with Alpine Endevors and had a blast. Lots of fun moves back and forth over the arête.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 28, 2015

Just FYI: In the Gran guidebook, this climb's name is spelled "Petie's Spare Rib", and the climb next to it (in the Gran book) is just "Petie".

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