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Royal Arch Wall
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Pete's Lead 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pete
Page Views: 761
Submitted By: Bill McKirgan on Oct 29, 2012

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Cleaning Pete's.

Pete's Lead (great for beginning trad lead climbers) 

Easy well-protected lead. The crux is mid-way up where the crack widens and the flake becomes bulbous making it tough to lie back. The crux has a couple of vertical mail slot pockets on the left face that are easy to miss. Above the crux it becomes an easy scramble to the finish where a horizontal crack takes gear to protect on the short traverse right to the anchors for the sport route, Smidgin.

Location 

Pete's Lead is to the left of Smidgin. The start is a left tilting ramp leading to the crack. Get down by using the anchors for Smidgin provided it is not being used, or if the party on Smidgin doesn't mind sharing.

Protection 

C4 Cam sizes .5 through 4. (4 is good at the crux but eliminates a solid fist jam)


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