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Peter Pan 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bob Kamps and Jim Sims (July '62)
Page Views: 3,288
Submitted By: Bryan G on Dec 23, 2011

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Peter Pan is a great offwidth climb in a spectacular location near the West Buttress of El Cap. It's just as splitter as Moby Dick Center or Sacherer Cracker, but the views are much better and you won't have to wait in line.

Hike for 20 minutes along the west face of El Cap, then scramble up 3rd class (there's usually fixed lines to grab). Peter Pan is the super obvious, right slating, offwidth up on the face. This splitter is approached from the left, starting at basically the exact same point as the West Buttress route.

Pitch 1: Up the gully with a bit of awkward 5.7 wiggling at the beginning. Belay at a bolted anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Traverse right and slightly down to reach a hand crack. Follow this handcrack as it widens to fists and takes you to a ledge. You could belay here but we kept going. Climb up the offwidth which starts at about 4.5" and widens to a chimney. Belay in a alcove after about 190ft.

Pitch 3: A short pitch up the chimney, passing an awkward block. Above this, tunnel behind another block to reach the top of the pinnacle. The rope likes to get caught in a constriction so it's best to make pitch 2 super long and this one short.

To descend, make two double-rope rappels straight down. The anchor at the top of the pinnacle is sort of weird. It's a single bolt backed up by another bolt 10ft away (a rope attaches the two).


A single set of cams from 1" to a #6 Camalot. If you are timid in squeeze chimneys (or you can't squeeze inside a crack that's slightly wider than a tipped out #6) then you may want to bring big bros or something.

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By Rob Dillon
Dec 24, 2011

This is a classic excursion: giant features on a giant cliff, and once you leave the ground it feels like you're halfway up El Cap. Watch for pterodactyls and maybe bring a couple beers up to the Peter Pan ledge at the top.

As long as you're in the neighborhood, don't miss the first two pitches of the West Buttress- maybe the coolest .10a in the Valley.
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Dec 26, 2011

No, I was referring to the ledge at the start of the offwidth, not the old bolt after passing the "ear".

I agree the first couple pitches of West Butt are sweet, and added it as a route.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
May 1, 2012

Very Attractive splitter. Did only OW part up to shitty bots. Did not have courage to go for 5.7 chimney without gears. Mainly because I felt that rating in this area is bit off and long 5.7 chimney can be very adventures without couple of #4 big bros.
Interesting stories and TR at ST:
By Rob Dillon
May 13, 2012

You'd be fine, Alexey. But you do have to, um, choose life if you're gonna lead it. I think being solid would feel more confidence-inspiring than dragging up a pile of #4 BigBros. After the long squeezer you get a couple cams in; I recall a #2 camalot. Not much, but enough to exhale finally. The ledge is splendid.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 14, 2015

This time we link p1 with part of the p2 and belay at the beginning of the wide splitter ( the place which Reid book call the top of p2.) I had idea to make the second pitch to the top of the pinnacle, but stop 15 feet short at the bottom of the final chimney with block and belaying there since last 15 feet can cause a lot of rope drag.
5.7 chimney hard, but secure and it lower part protected with #9, middle part with #4 BigBro

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