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Stirrup Rock - South Face
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Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Waugh, Nick Badyrka, Dave Houser & Jan McCollum, December 1977
Page Views: 1,388
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 2, 2003

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Peter eater pumpkin eater

Description 

This prominent straight-up crack in solid rock is very distinctive and easy to see when approaching the south face of Stirrup Rock.

The most difficult section, a shallow pod, occurs within the first eight feet. The climbing eases considerably until a bulge near the top.

Protection 

This stellar crack is easy to protect with medium stoppers and 1" - 3.5" cams. Fist-sized cams are needed for an anchor.


Photos of Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stirrup Rock (south face), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Stirrup Rock (south face), Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: David going over the bulge near the top.
David going over the bulge near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater" goes up the ...
BETA PHOTO: "Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater" goes up the ...

Comments on Peter Eater Pumpkin Eater Add Comment
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By Randy
Mar 3, 2003

Due to a tyographical error in the 1992 guide, the name of this route has been incorrectly listed (and relisted in Alan's book) as Peter Easter Pumkin Eater. The actual name is Peter Eater Pumkin Eater. Not a big deal, I'll admit, but it will corrected in volume 2 of the new guide. No need to perpetuate the error here.

A fun route on good rock.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Mar 7, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's particularly helpful to tape up as there's a ripper jam in the lower (crux) section. Good rock with fun moves and there's rarely a soul around. Three stars out of five.
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2006

I really liked this one. Similar to O'Kelley's Crack, it's difficult to rate its difficulty using the YDS. I'd put the start at 5.11, awkward and reachy to a good fingerlock. Once past that, the rest of the route is no more than 5.8/9 with maybe one 5.10a move up higher as Vern mentions in the description. Very fun.

There's a cool shot of Mike Waugh on the first ascent of PEPE in the old Wolfe guide.

There is a rap station (climber's right) on the shoulder of the formation which requires some easy downclimbing to reach. The bolts (approx 2' apart) are each equipped with a single quicklink, which makes pulling your rope difficult. Chains might be appropriate here. Any thoughts?

As a side note, shouldn't the name be Peter PETER Pumpkin Eater, as in the misogynistic nursery rhyme?

Peter, Peter, pumpkin eater,
Had a wife and couldn't keep her;
He put her in a pumpkin shell,
And there he kept her very well.
By Adam Kimmerly
Nov 5, 2007

As I sit here nursing the hole I ripped in my left index finger, I have to emphasize Chris's suggestion to tape up for this one. It's the first knuckle on the left index finger that best fit in the jam, and coincidentally is now munched.

I was unable to crank through the starting crux on this thing. I think a little more reach/height would help reach the jam from the good foot holds, or maybe just a little additional burliness. This felt very stout for a 10c, but I'll reserve judgement until I actually get up the dang thing.

I see a trend with routes that have the name "Mike Waugh" in the FA list - most seem stout for the grade and downright burly. But who knows... maybe I'm just weak.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 5, 2007

Was rated F10 back when I was a kid..... maybe even called 5.9 by some. Seems a bit hard for 5.9
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 5, 2007

"I think a little more reach/height would help reach the jam from the good foot holds, or maybe just a little additional burliness."

I'll go with burliness. On the FA team was Mike Waugh & Jan McCollum who run out at about 5'7" & 5'5" respectively.

As for your comment about Mike Waugh, he was and still is BAD-O™.

Sorry to hear about your digit!

~Susan
By Richard Shore
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I came out to Stirrup Rocks area for some easy solos, and ended up on this one by mistake. Using the new Miramontes guide, I studied the WRONG picture thinking this was Gargoyle, a cruiser 5.6. Looking up from the base I thought "wow, the start looks like V2!" But this is Josh, and the first 15 feet don't count, right? It looked juggy above, yet still steep. Foolishly, I ignored my instincts and was drawn closer by the route's siren song. I went for it, and was rewarded with beautiful climbing moves. Arriving on the summit, I was convinced that it was the biggest sandbag in all of Josh. On my hike out back to the car, I saw an elderly couple climbing an easy handcrack and asked them what it was. Their reply - "Gargoyle!" I immediately realized my error, and was beside myself when I opened the guide and saw what I had done.

Hardest 5.6 ever.

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