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Personal Space Hammer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gillet and Hill, 1992
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 21, 2010

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The route climbs the obvious hand crack.

Description 

The first pitch on PSH is a gem. The slightly overhanging hand crack just right of the chimney system is your goal.

P1: Scramble up poorly protected (no gear) rock for 20 feet to engage the hand crack. Follow this through a few bulges to a stance below the squeeze on P2.

P2: Luckily there are two options for pitch 2. There is a squeeze chimney on the left (5.8) and a left-facing dihedral (5.9) on the right. The pitch ends on the summit ridge. The 5.9 pitch protects well with thin hand pieces, while the squeeze would require 6-8inch gear.

There are great views of the north face of Sharksfin with the Diamond in the background on the summit ridge. Follow 3rd class rock to an easy walk off.

Location 

This route starts just to the right of the second chimney system that you encounter on the hike up the north side.

Protection 

Mostly thin to big hand pieces....


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