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Hägar T,S 
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Perrenoud 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perrenoud, Mottet
Season: As long as the Furka pass is open
Page Views: 312
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011

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Climbing the extensive corner / chimney system in ...

Description 

A classic of the wall and the region, following a single corner / chimney system for five pitches and topped off with three additional pitches of high-quality crack and corner climbing.

All in all, the routes offers superb climbing for the grade. It is the easiest route on the south face of the Chli Bielenhorn, and the most frequently climbed (due also in part to the excellent bolting).

Pitches go at 4c, 5a, 5b, 5b, 6a, 6a, 6a, 5b. Crux is the second 6a pitch, with a somewhat delicate, slabby traverse underneath a small roof
early on in the pitch. It is advisable to extend draws on this pitch to minimize rope drag.

Note that a neighboring route (bolts with square hangers) comes very close to Perrenoud on several occassions, and even shares a few of the belays. Always stay to the right, following the bolts with the rounded hangers, when presented with an option.


Location 

The route is somewhat left of center on the south face, and begins in a south-east oriented chimney. There is typically a snowfield at the base of this part of the wall, and a clear trail across such to the start of the route. The snowfield is generally unproblematic (does not require an axe or crampons).

Descent is by abseil down the route (2x50m ropes).

Protection 

Well protected with bolts, particularly in the more difficult sections. It is advisable to bring a small assortment of cams to fill a few gaps in the easier pitches.


Photos of Perrenoud Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the end of the route, we continued up the ridge...
At the end of the route, we continued up the ridge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the end of the crux sixth pitch of Perrenoud ...
Near the end of the crux sixth pitch of Perrenoud ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch seven - actually, got on a neighbouring rout...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch seven - actually, got on a neighbouring rout...
Rock Climbing Photo: A good view of the Perrenoud line, which follows t...
BETA PHOTO: A good view of the Perrenoud line, which follows t...

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