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Perpetual Motion Wall
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Perpetual Motion 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 7,564
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Perpetual Motion Photo by Darshan Ahluwalia


An absolutely classic overhanging hand crack. You'll wish it were three times as long. Toward the right side of the Perpetual Motion Wall two cracks form a giant "V". The left crack is Perpetual Motion, the right is Gross Chimney. A bulging thin hands bit at the start gets the crux out of the way early. Plug perfect hands (and occasional cams) up the overhanging wall while the pump clock ticks away. It widens just a bit at the top, but that means you're almost done with it. The view from the top is awesome, and you probably won't find a line at the base.


Cams in the handjam range (2, 2.5, 3), plus something for the anchor up top.

Photos of Perpetual Motion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Plugging in the #1 on Perpetual Motion  Photo by D...
Plugging in the #1 on Perpetual Motion Photo by D...
Rock Climbing Photo: Larry Stone, 1983 (nice pants)
Larry Stone, 1983 (nice pants)
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful, and solid, line.
A beautiful, and solid, line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil in the Crux of Perpetual Motion
BETA PHOTO: Phil in the Crux of Perpetual Motion

Comments on Perpetual Motion Add Comment
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By Ben Craft
Apr 1, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I wish there was more hand jam cracks like this in the park.

Watch out for birds if you do this in the evening.
By namascar
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Steep, thin hands. UFF!! However, if you have problems in the thin hands section (like me), there is a side pull and an edge on the left of the crack.
By Russ Walling
Nov 2, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

As I recall, you can take the bite out of the crux by fist jamming the slot that makes up the thin hands section.... if you have a 4" fist that is.
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 1, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It is a gorgeous splitter, but when we were there (circa 1997) the bottom section was full of guano. Short, even for J-Tree
By Manjushri
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I found this to be quite slimy toward the bottom, especially through the crux. Not sure if the culprit is pasted chalk, some kind of excrement or a combination of both (much poo is present at the base of the cracks here). The condition detracted somewhat from the climbing, but it is still an awesome splitter.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Very tough start for me. Also a lot of bird poop at the beginning. Once through the start up higher got tough, I went to plug in a #3 and I was getting pumped and the cable came off the clip on the cam I cursed. I quickly grabbed a #2 cam which was a little to small,it worked I clipped in and then fell off cam held. I look down at my friend, and told him man you need to fix your cam and then laughed. What a day that was. It was my 10 year anniversary climbing at Joshua Tree. Feb 2007
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 8, 2015

the common approach is via a steep upscramble starting across from Between A Rock And A Hard Place and wrapping up and ccw to the backside where PM is (FYI, the top of the easy downclimb crack for the PM walkoff is visible from the ground on this side). also possible to go cw via the Knick & Knack corridor, if doing those routes as well along the way, but would involve much groveling through talus tunnels and squeeze slots. the most direct and easiest way to PM is up a broad rock ramp on the SE side of the PM talus clump actually, aiming diagonally to climber's left and up to PM without veering toward the K&K corridor. this is visible from up at PM, but hard to spot at ground level
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Dec 19, 2015

Good place to climb when the wind is blowing hard...
By nathanael
From: Riverside, CA
Feb 27, 2017

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