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Permission Wall
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Permission Granted 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Montgomery, Clayton Laramie
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 7, 2013

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First "legal" ascent at Staunton.

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Description 

This is a fun route on the right side of Permission Wall. The first pitch starts below a slanting hand crack towards the right side of the wall. Aim for this, and then head up and left towards a slanting finger crack (easily seen from the ground). Make crux moves to get past the finger crack and climb more easily to a good ledge. There's a bit of a runout before the finger crack and then after the crux but on easier climbing.

The second pitch goes up near a black water streak above the ledge. There's a wide chimney in the way, so move the belay across it at a big chockstone. Climb up to a big ledge and belay there on a gear anchor.

(Note: route name and first ascent info obtained from Fixed Pin's free guide to the area.)

Location 

The route starts near the right side of Permission Wall. Look for a slanting hand crack maybe 15 feet up and start below it.

One can top out on Meadow Dome, scramble and then walk to the north, and then head down the trail for the Tan Corridor. We sniffed our way over to a ledge atop the sport routes at the Tan Corridor and rappelled off one of the anchors after belaying one another down a few moves to get to it.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot. A small cam may be useful at the crux. No bolts or fixed anchors.


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