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Billy Goat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 
Cummed On S 
Permanent Erection S,TR 
Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 

Permanent Erection 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Oct 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Billy Goat

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>


This is the middle bolted route on Billy Goat Rock.

Climb up via easy but pumpy climbing to a bulge with garbage hands and non-existant feet above the second bolt. Continue on via pumpy pockets above to the top anchor, which is over the lip.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with the Bridwell Bolt Route. Climb up the backside of Billy Goat Rock and a ways back down to reach the top anchors. Bring a couple 6 foot slings to keep your anchor off the lip of the rock.

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By Hank Sato
Jan 5, 2004

I fel the crux move is a bit harder than 5.11a. There may be a possibility that the crucial hold broke, making it a little harder?? (Persoannly, I felt the 5.11B/C route to the right of Permanet Erection is easier or at an eaual difficulty level.) Anyway, this is a very good climb.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jul 9, 2006

First two bolts on the Permanent Erection have been removed by person or persons unknown (c. March 2006). Why? They were 3/8".

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