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Old Man Stone Face and Hollin Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Stain, The S 
Celebrimbor Crack T,S 
Devious Septum S 
Fern Gully T 
Paso Por Aqui T 
Peripatetic T,S 
Revocation of Bail T,S 
Tom's Cruise T 
Western Cheek, The T,S 

Peripatetic 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Robert Flaugher and Tom Weaver
Page Views: 45
Submitted By: Desicon on Jan 28, 2008

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Description 

Climbing Peripatetic entails an initial scramble westward across a free-cut 300 pound boulder that leans against the parent mass of OMSF. This block does not shift under 150 pounds of body weight, but climbers are cautioned to move with care at this point, do not pull outwards!

Climb the thin crack where small and medium-sized nuts fit nicely, then up two parallel cracks just below a mantleshelf where you will find the first bolt. The line then follows a shallow, wandering crack system -- first up and left, then up and right back toward The Black Stain. At the second bolt on Peripatetic the climber has a choice of moving up and two feet right of the bolt to a bomber ledge grip for a 5.10a experience; or the climber can move two feet west of this bolt and stay on 5.9 moves. The route then parallels the Black Stain, staying about 6 feet to its left, going up the western margin of the roof bulges to the head wall. A third bolt protects the roof zone.

Location 

This route is the fourth (from the west) on OMSF, listed as #2 p. 51 of Squeezing the Lemmon II. Peripatetic starts 8 feet left (west) of The Black Stain.

Protection 

Originally led without bolts, this climb was retro-bolted in 1993, and now sports three of them.

Wired nuts, I used 8 of them #6 through 11; #6 and #7 hexes on the head wall cracks; a 1.0 red lowe tricam; 13 quickdraw sets and one 4 foot runner.


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