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Periodontal Fracture 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chad Suchoski
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,397
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 22, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Took a while wandering around to find this crack. ...

Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>


This crack varies from hands to fists and hosts some great hand jamming and is sustained from the start until you clip the anchors. The crack is solid as bay area sandstone gets but the rock on the outside of the crack is a bit loose. So looking for foot and hand holds outside of the crack is not a real great option. Watch for Poison oak at the base. It has been wiped out several times but comes back every few years.


Its an obvious crack on the lowest tier facing downhill. You can spot it form the bottom of the canyon if you know where to look. If you want to top rope it, climb around the back on the right side pulling a move over a large chock stone. Careful this chockstone is loose but I doubt anyone could physically pull it out. You'll find two ring anchors at the top.


Cams 1-2ea. .5"-3" Rap anchors at top.

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By jon.koberstein
Sep 8, 2015

One of the bolts on top is loose and the other bolt it right above hollow sounding rock. I was going to top rope this but decided against it when I saw the state of the anchor. Bring a cam to back up the anchor if you are going to climb here.

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