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Perilous Journey 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X

Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: Dave Breashears and Steve Mammen, 1975
Page Views: 5,308
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 25, 2001

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Bob Horan on an early repeat ascent of Perilous Jo...

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  • Description 

    Jim Erickson's 1980 guide calls Perilous Journey a "hyper-modern horror" and Rossiter calls it "Boulder's most famous mind control classic". What mind control, life is easy on a top rope. Today I still would not lead this fright fest. As a sport route Perilous Journey would check in with a lot of 5.11 edge climbing and probably fall in the middle zone of acceptable quality routes. There are hundreds of better sport routes in terms of continuous 5.11 climbing and nice movement on stone. The rough stuff on Perilous Journey comes at 25 to 30 ft off the deck and this why it was such an amazing test of mind control. I'm still not sure that you could get in more than a single #1 or #2 stopper, perhaps a brass nut if you had the time. Climbing after the flake is never harder than middle 5.10, but the gear is still really sparse. So why list Perilous Journey here? Because if you climb, you should do it just to see what was going through Breashears' head. Just run the top rope, unless you are feeling up to the mind control. To set up the TR, run P1 of The Red Dihedral (5.6) and jog right a few feet to get the gear. To bail off go back to the rap station at the top of TRD P1. What we have done is to run the TR on PJ and then head over to Mighty Mouse (5.12a) and all of its nice cozy bolts. This has always been an amusing contrast, a bit like weighing one's psyche in the balance.



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    By Chris Dawson
    From: Denver, CO
    Nov 21, 2001

    I have never done this route. I do, however, have a question about the rating of both this and Krystal Klyr. Are they both .11b? Is one 11d and the other .11b? I'm only interested, because I think that these two routes are probably best done in the style they were first climbed in. To me, there's a bit of a difference between "b" and "d", and I'd just like to know. Maybe someday (10 years from now), I'll have the balls/ability/mind control to go after one of these babies from the ground up. Any help would be appreciated.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Feb 1, 2003

    Well, I toproped this yesterday, and checked out the gear. Obviously, the initial few meters (what I thought to be the crux) is unprotectable. However, in the jug just before it kicks back to a slab there is a bomber cam (something like a black Metolius or white Alien). Above, in the handhold used to mantle onto the infamous edge, there is a money blue ball-nut. Of course, Breashears didn't have access to this kinda stuff for the first, but nowadays this thing is fairly reasonable.
    By EDJ
    From: Eldorado Springs, Colorado
    Sep 26, 2011

    Just did this route on-sight free solo and feel the crux is getting the hold that Dan Stone has in the Levin guide. At that point you are a long way up(more than 30ft). The climbing lower is hard as well but falling from lower wouldn't be totally unthinkable. For me route finding was a definate challenge as there was no chalk and I certainly didn't want to screw up. If one were to rope up, there is gear to be had but I don't think you could down grade it from X to R just based on mondern gear. It's just to darn serious. 5.11C X feels like a fair onsight lead grade.
    By Cunning Linguist
    Dec 19, 2011

    George Bell has not climbed this route but agrees with the X rating.

    Edit: George's post stating so on the Friar page in Red Rock NCA has been deleted. Worth noting however.
    By Jason Haas
    Feb 3, 2012

    I onsighted this route a few weeks ago but chose to use a rope instead of soloing it. For anyone thinking of leading it, I found some gear beta that I feel reduces the route to "R". I'd hate to sandbag someone on such a serious route, but there is some gear to be had. Feel free to contact me if you'd like the gear beta.

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