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Perfect Medium 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Eric Zschieschie
Page Views: 2,677
Submitted By: Brian Runnells on Feb 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Aaron getting ready to set the foot.


Start using arete on right and small crimps on left. Make your way to the obvious horizontal break at half-height using razor crimp, sloper, and abysmal feet.

Continue from the break up easier moves to the top of the boulder if you are feeling brave or just traverse off left or right to ledges.

Large foot hold at bottom might be considered "off" by some...just have fun


If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. You will pass Sex & Chocolate which is a blank arete/face climb/dyno. Perfect Medium is just past this on your right, around a corner.


Landing is very flat although boulders off to the side come in to play on topout

Photos of Perfect Medium Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-up of the start crimp, for those who use it.
Close-up of the start crimp, for those who use it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sending Perfect Medium.
Sending Perfect Medium.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo courtesy of the Narc
Photo courtesy of the Narc
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve going for a repeat of PM.
Steve going for a repeat of PM.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic O. skipping the bad crimp.
Nic O. skipping the bad crimp.
Rock Climbing Photo: The stab.
The stab.
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyeing up the next hold.
Eyeing up the next hold.
Rock Climbing Photo: Establishing on the sloper and looking for the foo...
Establishing on the sloper and looking for the foo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect Medium
Perfect Medium
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect Medium.
BETA PHOTO: Perfect Medium.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving to the slopey crimp that sets up for the cr...
Moving to the slopey crimp that sets up for the cr...

Comments on Perfect Medium Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2011
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 10, 2007

First Ascent by Eric Z. I was there when Eric finally fired this thing off. I never did get it. Slightly harder than the Zipper.
By Brian Runnells
Mar 22, 2007

Must have been cool to see. I knew that Eric had done it but I was waiting until I found out how to spell his name.
By SteveSchultz
Sep 19, 2007

Very very good problem! That crimp is amazingly sharp though!!! I think this problem may actually be easier for people under 5'8". Getting that high foot was key and i think if i were a couple inches taller it would have been tough to do that.
By Tony Brengosz
Sep 23, 2007

Did you use that triangle shaped foot up higher, or a really small nubbin slightly lower?
By SteveSchultz
Sep 25, 2007

we used the triangular foot up high. worked really well for us but i could see it being an issue for someone taller. felt a little more like V8 to me though.
By Brian Runnells
Oct 5, 2007

Using that high foot would blow out my groin...
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 24, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Steve, you will have to show me your foot beta. RV and I got on it this morning and figuring out the feet was tricky. Super fun problem though, that crimp isn't so bad if you tape up and don't think about it.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2009
rating: V8 7B

This boulder problem is amazing! I thought it was over today, but PM put up a good fight, next time.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 29, 2009

Remo! You look so close in the last pic!!! You'll get it soon! Glad the foot beta seems to be working.

Looks like you guys had a great crew up there.
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Jul 11, 2009

A small tree prevented this problem from being done correctly in the beginning. Alas, the tree was removed. The remover of the tree was injured, a few times, for not first offering up kinnikinnic to the Spirits of the Lake and Gitchi Manitou. Always follow local ethics. In this case, local Native American ethics. The same person burned a hive full of bees with gasoline near a boulder problem, and was promptly stung in the center of the forehead, leading to a neanderthal resemblance. I miss those days, and that guy was the greatest climbing sensei I ever met.
From: Winona
Jul 12, 2009

...and that dude is coming back this year for the climbers party in october! Should be fun even though he's off the sauce!
By Terry Kieck
Jul 13, 2009

I remember that day well. I met that "hillbilly" on trail with his gas can and gloves taped to sleeves with duct tape so bees could not get in his shirt. Those were some great times!
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 21, 2009

Anyone know the location / have pics of Manhattan (V1/V2)? Thought it was nearby Perfect Medium...
By SteveSchultz
Sep 21, 2009

Manhattan is the face directly left of Perfect Medium. If you're looking at PM, turn 90 degrees to your left and that's Manhattan.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 19, 2009
rating: V8 7B

So Psyched!!!
By Tradiban
Oct 19, 2009

Remo sent finally, after I stopped him from trying every 20 seconds, made him rest, and used the patented "Rhoads Way" for hold scubbin'.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 19, 2009

That's super news Remo! Well done sir!
By Langlois
From: NYC
Oct 19, 2009

Adam Remus. So hot right now
By SteveSchultz
Oct 20, 2009

Sick work Remo!! Well done!!
By SteveSchultz
Oct 26, 2009

Gabe sent this past Saturday! seems this problem is getting worked this fall!!
By Dobbe
Mar 29, 2010

Done Dada!!!
By Langlois
From: NYC
Mar 29, 2010

Oh Yeah, sorry I wasnt there to take a sideways vid...
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 29, 2010

congrats man.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 29, 2010
rating: V8 7B

Yeah Dobbe!
By greg bahr
Sep 24, 2011
rating: V8 7B

ill second the fact its a little bit harder if your taller! this thing is sooo good! really enjoyed it!

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