Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
SOB Gully (skier's left side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 
Casual Route, The T 
Casually Off-Route T 
Cloak & Dagger T 
Cloaked Interpretation T 
Comic Relief T 
Debutante's Ball T 
Dragon's Tooth, The T 
Escape Artist T 
Escape, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Perfect Art T 
Power Lounger T 
Stand Up Comic T 
Veterans With Vertigo T 
Woke Up Punk T 

Perfect Art 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Art Wiggins?
Season: any
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Matt Pesce on Aug 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This striking right-facing corner/fingers splitter capped by roof is the landmark feature. It is obvious from the approach to Comic Relief, Cloak & Dagger. Above the splitter is a steep slab with an incipient crack with RPs for pro.

P1: climb P1 of Cloak & Dagger to nice ledge below a pegmatite roof left of Cloak & Dagger corner, 5.9+, 180'.

P2: climb left-leaning chimney/slab to nice ledge below obvious finger crack/ corner capped by rectangular roof, 5.11a, 70'.

P3: ascend a fingers/tips splitter/layback corner passing fixed nuts under roof, pass roof to the right with hands/thin hands. There is a fixed nut belay, 5.11+, 80'.

P4: climb a steep, slabby seam to stance at top of P4 of Comic Relief, 5.12b, 90'.

Location 

The obvious fingers splitter/corner is the landmark for this stellar route.

Protection 

Mostly small stuff, some hands/big hands for chimney, fist crack, and bring RPs for sure.


Comments on Perfect Art Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2014

Pitch 3 is really fun! I didn't have the balls for pitch 4. I escaped by climbing over to the black corner on Comic Relief.
By RyanO
From: sunshine
Oct 24, 2014

The links to "CR" in this description lead to the Casual Route page instead of Comic Relief.
By Dylan Cousins
Nov 15, 2016

Some notes:

P1: I did this differently than described above, but they get you to the same place. I did the crack that starts a few feet down and left of the initial 9+ chimney on Cloak and Dagger. It's a burly fist crack move to start, but the rest of the pitch is really neat. I ran the rope out all the way to a stance below the 11a roof with no rope drag, 10+.

P2: with a lot of runners and confidence, this could be combined with the first pitch with a 70m rope. Probably better to break it up anyway. 11a roof is fun and well-protected. A fairly short pitch. Nice, big belay ledge below the obvious splitter, 11a.

P3: classic splitter into a corner. Pass the fixed anchor, and turn the roof on hand jams. Jam another few moves to a stance with a fixed wire. The belay stance is exposed and neat but very uncomfortable. Those who lower off of the fixed anchor and escape back to Comic Relief are missing out on a cool roof move and a great P4... 11c.

P4: a test of your small wire dinking ability. Bring a healthy amount of them - offsets useful. There are also a few mid-sized cam placements to be had along the way. The pin at the top of the seam is junky, and you can pull it out with your hands. I wish I would've just taken it out, because there's nasty looking tat on it too that just mars the aesthetic of the crack. There are bomber small cams and wires below and above the pin. The traverse right is very thin, but it goes, and you are essentially on top rope for it. After the traverse, move up, clip a fixed blade, move back down and rightm and bust up a fun left angling finger/hand crack (10-) to a nice alcove with great thin hand/ wide finger sized gear for anchors, 12b.

P5: one could combine this with the previous pitch, but I think it's better to break them up. Climb up and left out of the alcove in a nice crack then up through many bushes. This deposits you on the big ledge of Cloak and Dagger, not Comic as in the original description here, 10-.

From here, you could do any number of things. Of note is that you can traverse left (waaay left) from the C&D ledge passing a little dirty boulder problem then a nice 5.8 crack to the top of the lighting bolt crack pitch on Comic. This is a good option if there is a party on C&D above you and if you don't have the time/energy to finish on Cloaked Interpretation (which would be the best finish).

This route is excellent and should get done more often in its entirety. I only saw chalk on the 11+ splitter, but the crux had obviously seen some passage as the key footholds were pretty clean. The crux is totally safe, and you could essentially toprope yourself up it if you wanted to.