|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Pesce on Aug 23, 2014|
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By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 4, 2014
|Pitch 3 is really fun! I didn't have the balls for pitch 4. I escaped by climbing over to the black corner on Comic Relief.|
Oct 24, 2014
|The links to "CR" in this description lead to the Casual Route page instead of Comic Relief.|
By Dylan Cousins
Nov 15, 2016
P1: I did this differently than described above, but they get you to the same place. I did the crack that starts a few feet down and left of the initial 9+ chimney on Cloak and Dagger. It's a burly fist crack move to start, but the rest of the pitch is really neat. I ran the rope out all the way to a stance below the 11a roof with no rope drag, 10+.
P2: with a lot of runners and confidence, this could be combined with the first pitch with a 70m rope. Probably better to break it up anyway. 11a roof is fun and well-protected. A fairly short pitch. Nice, big belay ledge below the obvious splitter, 11a.
P3: classic splitter into a corner. Pass the fixed anchor, and turn the roof on hand jams. Jam another few moves to a stance with a fixed wire. The belay stance is exposed and neat but very uncomfortable. Those who lower off of the fixed anchor and escape back to Comic Relief are missing out on a cool roof move and a great P4... 11c.
P4: a test of your small wire dinking ability. Bring a healthy amount of them - offsets useful. There are also a few mid-sized cam placements to be had along the way. The pin at the top of the seam is junky, and you can pull it out with your hands. I wish I would've just taken it out, because there's nasty looking tat on it too that just mars the aesthetic of the crack. There are bomber small cams and wires below and above the pin. The traverse right is very thin, but it goes, and you are essentially on top rope for it. After the traverse, move up, clip a fixed blade, move back down and rightm and bust up a fun left angling finger/hand crack (10-) to a nice alcove with great thin hand/ wide finger sized gear for anchors, 12b.
P5: one could combine this with the previous pitch, but I think it's better to break them up. Climb up and left out of the alcove in a nice crack then up through many bushes. This deposits you on the big ledge of Cloak and Dagger, not Comic as in the original description here, 10-.
From here, you could do any number of things. Of note is that you can traverse left (waaay left) from the C&D ledge passing a little dirty boulder problem then a nice 5.8 crack to the top of the lighting bolt crack pitch on Comic. This is a good option if there is a party on C&D above you and if you don't have the time/energy to finish on Cloaked Interpretation (which would be the best finish).
This route is excellent and should get done more often in its entirety. I only saw chalk on the 11+ splitter, but the crux had obviously seen some passage as the key footholds were pretty clean. The crux is totally safe, and you could essentially toprope yourself up it if you wanted to.