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Perennials 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: V. Keller and A. Vidal
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer/early Fall
Page Views: 324
Submitted By: Alex Vidal on Jul 18, 2016

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Alex approaching the Alpine Lite Cliffs via the la...

Description 

Perennials is a ground-up established alpine route that exists as a 4 pitch variation (and direct start) to the last pitch of "Moss and Choss."

To the left of the large gully, which leads to other routes in the Main Area, exists a somewhat obvious face climbing passage below 3 moss-fill crack systems. Start here.

Pitch 1. Climb up without protection towards the most prominent and leftmost dihedral system, and place protection (remember to extend). Start trending right up the run out but moderate slab past a few protection opportunities. Traverse on positive holds up and right towards (5.7-5.8 R mantel) the low angle ramp and belay beneath a short but steep twin crack system which is just to the left of the large gully, 50m 5.8 R.

Pitch 2. Climb up the twin crack system making 5.9 moves past good protection opportunities. Continue up discontinuous and easy crack systems to a corner, and belay at the end of the rope before a small ramp, 70m, 5.9.

Pitch 3. Angle up and right on the easy ramp past protection opportunities, and belay beneath the large, left-angling roof above near the end of the rope, 70m, Easy 5th.

Pitch 4. The crux pitch. Climb up and right slightly from the belay and onto a small sloping ledge. Follow an intermittent crack system into the left-angling roof on black rock. Move 30ft left through the roof crack and pull into a small pod (5.9+ R). Chimney up and left through a second roof (5.9), and move up a moderate ramp towards the base of the "Moss and Choss" crack system. Hexes may be useful in adequately protecting the crux roof traverse, 60m, 5.9+ R.

Pitch 5. Proceed up the final pitch of "Moss and Choss," taking special care to utilize good protection opportunities in solid rock, when they are encountered. Much loose rock exists on the pitch, so it is a good idea to belay clear of this pitch until it cleans up, 65m, 5.8+ PG-13.

Protection 

Standard alpine rack. Hexes and a #4 Camalot are useful.


Photos of Perennials Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lovely scenery on the last pitch!
Lovely scenery on the last pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on the upper ramp of P4.
Alex on the upper ramp of P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex heading up p3. The German and The Scot goes u...
Alex heading up p3. The German and The Scot goes u...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux roof traverse from the top of the 3rd pit...
BETA PHOTO: The crux roof traverse from the top of the 3rd pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex taking us to the top on P5 via Moss and Choss...
Alex taking us to the top on P5 via Moss and Choss...
Rock Climbing Photo: Columbines near P1.
Columbines near P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the 4th pitch as it enters into &...
This photo shows the 4th pitch as it enters into &...

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