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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Steve Longenecker, Brian Lee, Sean Coffey, 1989
Page Views: 5,110
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Two climbers on Peregrine at 2nd belay.


Pitch 1: Climb eyebrows for about 75 feet to a nice ledge (you will be almost even with the Pitch 1 anchors on Sundial which will be to your right); gear anchor.
Pitch 2: (crux) Climb past the rap bolts (out right) and up over the dike. You will want to search for another gear belay once you are up and right of the anchors on the start of pitch 3 of The Nose.
Pitch 3: Climb up to the right edge of the parking lot and either use the rap anchors or build a belay out right.
Pitch 4: Work your way up and slightly left to the anchors at the top of The Nose. Three double rope rappels get you to the ground.


Peregrine is a slightly harder direct line in between The Nose and Sundial Crack. The route starts about 50ish feet right of The Nose. Look for the worn patches of granite that will indicate the start.


Standard NC rack with plenty of small stuff. Aliens work great, tri-cams are good. Long runners, two ropes.

Photos of Peregrine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Peregrine
P1 of Peregrine
Rock Climbing Photo: The 1st pitch of by Mike Cork.
The 1st pitch of by Mike Cork.

Comments on Peregrine Add Comment
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By Jethro Bodine-Clampett
From: Hixson, Tn
Aug 23, 2007
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Ah,yes, Peregrine. Many years ago one of my old climbing partners, being a poor student, decided to fashion his own "nuts and hexes" from water pipe fittings and wooden blocks. On one our trips to the Glass, we approached the Nose area and all the guide groups were hogging the first pitches of the Nose and Sundial. My partner was perrturbed, so he just roped up and started off on Peregrine. He led the first pitch and set the "belay". When I seconded my way to the ledge, lo and behold, the belay consisted of...PIPE FITTINGS!!! I angrily told him he'd better use cams at the next belay or I wouldn't climb a single pitch the rest of the trip.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 12, 2010

Did this route with Steve Spanierman in around 1980, the FA info must have been incomplete.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 8, 2012

FUn Fun Fun! A little more challenging then its brother and sister route, the nose and sundial. Big Step ups, eyebrows and slab! Often open on busy days but don't let that turn you off to this route, because its awesome in every way. If I remember correctly it can be a rope stretcher!
By munkeybog
From: Columbia, SC
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Blowing the slabby slick reachy 5.9 could ruin your climbing season on P1. But you are going for a nice hold.
The eyebrows above are the best on the glass. Deep and regularly space.

Gumby trick: climb in the vicinity of Sundial P1 and clip a draw to it's anchor to bipass the One Move (broken ankle) Wonder on P1 of Peregrin. You still get the eyebrows above and it goes at 5.8 with no trip to the Transylvania County Veterinary Clinic for that ankle.

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