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Peregrine Traverse T 

Peregrine Traverse 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 1500'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Hall & Orton
Page Views: 1,349
Submitted By: Josh Golden Eagle on Sep 8, 2015

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View from the anchors of the crux pitch


Fun traverse with excellent views, if you don't mind somewhat sparse protection.

Pitch 1: Scramble low 5th class ridge up to tree.

Pitch 2: Climb diagonally up and left, following a few bolts to bolted anchor just to the right of tree (5.7).

Pitch 3: Climb slab with 3 bolts to your right (5.7), or go scramble straight up and place your own pro (5.0). For both options, scramble along ledges to the only small tree at the base of Lunch Rock. Please note, you may not be able to hear each other from this location.

Pitch 4: Traverse about 40 feet, clipping anchors for another route and the two other bolts along the way. Then downclimb 10 feet into saddle, then go up left side of ridge on the other side of the saddle. About 20 feet up there are options for pro. Another 10-15 about that you will find bolted anchors. (5.6)

Pitch 5: Climb straight up 10 feet to the only bolt on this pitch. Continue through short wide crack. Continue scrambling your way until you see two small trees, at which you will find two bolt anchor (5.7)

Pitch 6: Scramble on left side of ridge clipping two bolts along the way. Continue to bolted anchors at wide crack about 20 feet above a douglas fir.

Pitch 7: Scramble up wide crack into gap with a narrow ridge ahead of you. Scramble up narrow ridge, clipping one bolt on the way. Continue on the ridge. Soon you will see belay anchors on your left, and anchors and register for Black Magic on your right. You are now at the top of Black Magic. You could probably use either set of anchors, but I used the anchors on the left (West side). (5.4)

Pitch 8: From the west (left anchors), look 15 feet in front of you on left side and locate rappel anchors. Rappel about 40 feet to a ledge. Scramble northward on easy but exposed terrain about 30 feet. Downclimb easy fifth class for 10 feet to another ledge at base of a chimney, or set up a trad anchor and belay your partner down.

Pitch 9: Climb chimney. About 20 feet up chimney you will find places for pro. Continue up right side, and gaining top of ridge. Use small tree for pro. Continue on narrow ridge for 20 feet (no further pro) to two bolted anchors. May be difficult to hear eachother at this point. (5.5)

Complete the climb by locating the rap anchors 3 feet to your right, and rapping to the base of the large tree. Do not rap past the tree unless you want to do some extra scrambling / forest navigation.

Go northward about 50' to Acker Rock Lookout. Follow the Lookout trail .25 as it switchbacks down to NF-950, and then 1 mi on NF-950 to the gate where you started.


Locate the orange/pink flags for the trail on left side of NF-950 about 0.5 mi up hill from the gate.

Hike about 0.5 on flagged trail, carefully following the flags.

Once you start see rocks, stay close to the base of the rocks and continue following flags.

When you have an open view to your far left, a vertical rock face on your left with a few bolted lines, and a easy class 5 ridge scramble directly in front of you, you are at the start of the Peregrine Traverse.


Single rack of CAMs 0.25 to 4", and stoppers. There are few bolts on the route as well.

Photos of Peregrine Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Technical Summit
Technical Summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Free Solo Speed Record to Technical Summit
Free Solo Speed Record to Technical Summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back on the 4th pitch traverse
Looking back on the 4th pitch traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to lead climber, pitch 4
Looking up to lead climber, pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back to my belayer on pitch 4
Looking back to my belayer on pitch 4

Comments on Peregrine Traverse Add Comment
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By hotlum
From: Bend, Oregon
Feb 24, 2016

FA- Hall & Orton
By Doctor Jibs
Sep 24, 2016

Soloed on 9-22-24. There was a large cluster of newly fallen tree debris about halfway along the approach trail. Nothing serious, but it does significantly block the trail and may make trail finding difficult for some. Follow The PINK RIBBONS B!
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchors of PItch 6
Anchors of PItch 6
By Jerimiah Gentry
From: Denver, CO
Nov 28, 2016

Hey Doctor Dibbs:

When you solo'ed this route (80+ years ago with amazingly advanced photograpy or in the future? ;)), did you down reverse the route or rap? I was considering reversing it for more volume but don't recall from my roped ascent if it seemed like an easy down climb. I don't know if I'd want to solo down climb the dihedral but I guess I could go over the hump.

Thanks for the TR~

By Doctor Jibs
Sep 10, 2017

Jeremiah Gentry

I botched the date, was supposed to be the year 2016, day is accurate though. I brought a rope up and rapped like a smart person.

While I'm here, I should note that Pitch Two listed here in the description is actually two pitches, there's an anchor station (September 2016) in the middle if you don't want the rope drag. I've done this route plenty and belaying a seconder for the whole stretch is a chore.

Headed back out to cop another solo later this week hopefully...
By Doctor Jibs
Sep 17, 2017


Established Free-Solo Speed Record: 28 minutes 35 seconds to summit box. 35 minutes 32 seconds to technical summit.

The trail is severely overgrown at the beginning and the downed manzanita from last year is still blocking the path halfway through. The trail marking tags have degraded as well. I will be bringing up marking tape next time I come, probably another year from now.

IT ALSO NEEDS TO BE NOTED TO WHOEVER IS MONITORING THIS PAGE that the 5.0 alternative route on pitch 3 is actually more like 5.3 and HAS NO PRO for approximately 45' from the belay station. You can sling a horn at the top of the ramp, but that's all you're gonna get from the choppy slab until you head around the corner.

PLEASE DON'T GO THIS WAY if you have a seconder. It puts their lives at risk. Stick to the corner dihedral, it's cramped, but its better than having your seconder go over a rope cutting drop 200' drop off.

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