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Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle T 

Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Johnny Karagozian & Richard Shore 9/16/16 GU
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Sep 20, 2016

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Johnny K jamming up P2 of Peregrine Pillar

Description 

Peregrine Pillar follows a plumb crack line up the north face of Big Grey Pinnacle, terminating directly on the true summit of the peak. The rock quality is pretty good overall, with a tad more grit and lichen than found on the South and East faces. There is no fixed gear on route, and pitches were kept short to utilize the best anchoring options and stances. Large cams were valuable for leads and belays on much of the route.

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. Pass the Lost Pink Tower on your right and scramble up the 3rd class gully with an enormous chockstone between LPT and BGP. Allow 3 hours.

P1) A short OW leads to 4th class grassy gully scramble. Belay at a big ledge. 5.6 45M
P2) Up the wide airy chimney to a stance below a small overhang. 5.8 30M
P3) Pull the overhang on its right and follow the squeeze to a marginal belay of your choosing. There is a nice big ledge above, but alas no anchor there. 5.9 30M
P4) Last of the wide to a ledge, then stem and lieback up to a stance below a small roof. 5.8 30M
P5) Left under the roof, up a dirty flare, then step right to shallow flared cracks on an exposed arete. Traverse left above the roof to an alcove. 5.10 30M
P6) An ugly, bushy corner is bypassed via a clean finger-to-hands splitter on the right wall. 5.10- 45M
P7) The garbage chute. Dirty bushy gully to some easy 5th on the right side. 5.5 30M
P8) Blocky, easy climbing leads to the summit. 5.0 30M

To descend: head SW across the summit and scramble down to the notch behind the tower. We made 2 short rappels to the west followed by an easy walk back to the base.

Protection 

Doubles to 3", single 4", 5", and 6".


Photos of Peregrine Pillar - Big Grey Pinnacle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay.   Galen Rowell's East Face (IV ...
Route Overlay. Galen Rowell's East Face (IV ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of Big Grey Pinnacle, as seen from space
Overview of Big Grey Pinnacle, as seen from space
Rock Climbing Photo: Berries of some sort around p2
Berries of some sort around p2
Rock Climbing Photo: From the base
From the base
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny K on the summit of Big Grey Pinnacle, with ...
Johnny K on the summit of Big Grey Pinnacle, with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RS in the P3 squeeze. Pic: JK
RS in the P3 squeeze. Pic: JK
Rock Climbing Photo: RS leading P2, Peregrine Pillar. Pic: JK
RS leading P2, Peregrine Pillar. Pic: JK
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnny K on P5
Johnny K on P5
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Topo

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