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Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig & Silvia Luebben, 1998
Page Views: 1,820
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Lucie just past the crux of the outstanding second...


This three-pitch route follows the striking dihedral on the edge of "El Fin".

P1 - 5.8 climb up low-angle terrain basically following the profile of the formation to a belay niche at the base of the dihedral. Alternatively, one can also climb Sheba Shite (5.9) or Same Same but Different (10c) to arrive at the same spot. (100 ft)

P2 - 10c follow bolts up the obvious dihedral, smearing and stemming for a sustained 100 ft. Belay at bolts on the right.

P3 - 5.9 follow broken and blocky terrain to the top of the fin. Follow the ridge-line for 15 feet and look for rap rings on the south (climber's right) side.

One double-rope rap will put you on the trail 100ft uphill from the start.


Cross the Arroyo at the second canyon. The trail is easily distinguished, follow it to the base of the fin and around (left) to the front for the original 5.8 start.


Standard Potrero rack of draws.

Photos of Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike and Annalise heading up the route.
Mike and Annalise heading up the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting my stemming on. Dec. 23, 2007.
Getting my stemming on. Dec. 23, 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben I. Jan 08
Ben I. Jan 08
Rock Climbing Photo: Stef in the meat of the Craig Luebben Route
Stef in the meat of the Craig Luebben Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Konrad and Joseph from Austria on Craig Luebben Ro...
Konrad and Joseph from Austria on Craig Luebben Ro...

Comments on Pepe y Lupe (Craig Luebben Route) Add Comment
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By David Champion
From: Centennial, CO
Feb 21, 2008

As of 2/19/2008 the condition of the rappel anchor at the top of P3 is as follows: There are two 3/8" bolts, only one of which is equipped with a hanger and quick link. Its twin appears to have been pulled out from the rock about 1", is bent downward, and has no hangar.

Rappel from the two-bolt anchor (chains with a snap link) atop P2 to avoid this dangerous anchor. You can reach the ground from here with a 70m rope. The last pitch--about 30' of 5.9--are not worth it. By the top of P2 you've already climbed the best part of the route.
Feb 27, 2008

I saw that bent, 1-bolt anchor on pitch three as well. Don't use it. Instead, climb 15 feet past it to the ridgeline you will find a big shiny anchor equipped with two rap rings. Rap from off and onto the Fin de Semana wall.
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Mar 23, 2008

I agree with David's comment about the last pitch. Aside from the initial airy moves there's little point in doing the third pitch.
By KoNoog
Apr 6, 2015

The gem pitch is of course the 2nd, but I still think you might as well get to the top since the rap situation isn't as dire as it is made out to be. Yes two ropes will get you down for the traditional south face rap; however, it's just as easy to get to Never Cry Wolf on the north face and rap from there (2 pitch rap) with a single rope. These rap anchors are literally 5 ft from the Pepe anchors, around the corner on the side (north face corner closest to road).
By M HawkMan
Dec 18, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Ditto everyone about not doing the last pitch.

We climbed the second pitch and rapped. Same same but different to the dihedral made for a nice 2 pitch outing. I would call the second stemming pitch solid .10c.

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