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Penthouse Pet 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: B. Guccione
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Howard on Mar 10, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Penthouse Pet is the right-slanting crack shown on...

Description 

Sustained crux comes immediately after starting from the low-angle slab into the thin tips crack. Make some delicate smeary steps up the blunt arete just to the right of the crack to make a longish reach to a one of the few tenable locks. The strenuousness eases as you reach the ledge and join Excitable Boy.
The beta photo doesn't do it justice. Then again, it is still harder than it looks in person.

Location 

The thin right slanting crack ~10' left of Excitable Boy.

Protection 

Thin cams for the crux. Medium for the anchors.


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