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6. Jumble Hotel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Face TR 
Dome Left TR 
Dome Right TR 
Fire Escape TR 
Left Turret TR 
Lower Slab Zag TR 
Penthouse Balcony TR 
Rapunzel Arete TR 
Service Wing TR 
Turret Bypass TR 

Penthouse Balcony 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts 2015
Page Views: 64
Submitted By: kenr on Jan 2, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Routes overview - lower right - Jumble Hotel E - F...

Description 

Interesting slab climbing low, then interesting arete higher and finish on top block with a little balcony overhang.

Start by traversing horizontally Right from the botton of the wide crack/chimney about eight feet out onto the slab face, then up the slab. Up a gentler section to a tiny platform beside an eight-inch tree. Next up directly on the arete above the tree. Trend left to the penthouse top block and climb it directly over its front overhang.

Warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

Upper Left sector. Hike diagonal-leftward up steep-ish gully to eight-inch tree. Route starts at obvious foot-wide crack/chimney/gully about ten feet right from the tree. See Routes photo.

There is a less-steep waiting area just below left from tree (with a drop-off below, so might want to tether belayer or waiting climbers).

Protection 

Top-Roping: Instead of ascending the obvious steep + loose gully on left side of crag, easier to set up top anchor by going around bottom right (east) side of crag, then scramble up gully (diagonal left-ward) between this crag and the next crag to the east.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown.


Photos of Penthouse Balcony Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: routes overview Jumble Hotel sector A - Left Turre...
BETA PHOTO: routes overview Jumble Hotel sector A - Left Turre...

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