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Reservoir Wall
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Pente 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 21,602
Submitted By: Ben F on May 13, 2001

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Andy Hansen gives Pente a go on his second day cli...

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitter. This section is mostly red camalot size with a few slightly larger pods in it. This leads to another small ledge. Above the ledge, the crack turns to a thinning left facing dihedral (mostly .75 Camalot). Catch your breath at the ledge and motor for the anchors. This climb is freaking awesome - varied and challenging.

    Protection 

    Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots. Some 2 and 2.5 Friends would also work. Also bring 2 or 3 #2 Camalots/3 Friends and the same goes for .75 Camalots/1.75 Friends. For the very top, you can place a couple pieces in the .5 Camalot range. You will need 2 ropes to rappel as this pitch is somewhere around 125 ft.


    Photos of Pente Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Andy Hansen places a #2 in the thin hands start to...
    Andy Hansen places a #2 in the thin hands start to...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome thin hands splitter of Pente.  Photo b...
    The awesome thin hands splitter of Pente. Photo b...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pe...
    Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pe...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Smack in the middle of the hands splitter on Pente...
    Smack in the middle of the hands splitter on Pente...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pente (5.11), a grand perspective. Terry climbing....
    BETA PHOTO: Pente (5.11), a grand perspective. Terry climbing....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pente
    Pente
    Rock Climbing Photo: A slightly different angle. Joseffa Meir leads 'Pe...
    A slightly different angle. Joseffa Meir leads 'Pe...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the slabby left-facing corner.
    Start of the slabby left-facing corner.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pente with a view
    BETA PHOTO: Pente with a view
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony jammin on the beautiful Pente splitter
    Tony jammin on the beautiful Pente splitter
    Rock Climbing Photo: What an outstanding climb! Great crack for all han...
    What an outstanding climb! Great crack for all han...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Plaque
    Plaque
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pete about to re-enter red Camalot country.   Inte...
    Pete about to re-enter red Camalot country. Inte...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The totally bitchin thin hands start to the totall...
    The totally bitchin thin hands start to the totall...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The towering Pente.  Mamacita!
    BETA PHOTO: The towering Pente. Mamacita!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Tashkin beginning the journey.
    Jon Tashkin beginning the journey.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun start.
    Fun start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thin hands splitter - so good
    Thin hands splitter - so good
    Rock Climbing Photo: Geared-up for the long haul (thin hands start).
    Geared-up for the long haul (thin hands start).
    Rock Climbing Photo: The classic thin hands - hands splitter. Fingers f...
    The classic thin hands - hands splitter. Fingers f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on the final moves of 'Pente (5.11-)'. P...
    Tony Bubb on the final moves of 'Pente (5.11-)'. P...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb gets a no-hands rest with the leg stuffe...
    Tony Bubb gets a no-hands rest with the leg stuffe...

    Comments on Pente Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2016
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Apr 18, 2002
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Me and My 70 M rope say that this pitch is closer to 155' long. You'd need a 100M of cord to get off of it!

    The thin section up top is not hard, but you are soooo pumped, so lay-backing is difficult.
    By Josh Beck
    May 1, 2004
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Probably 160-165', a 70 would miss by a mile, bring 2 ropes. Excellent to the first ledge, a bit tedious and a bit of rope drag above. As others said, good to have a couple .5-.75 (Camalot) size pieces for the top.
    By Rob Dillon
    Apr 13, 2006

    Does anyone know exactly when the block at the base collapsed? Yikes.
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Oct 15, 2006
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    What a stunning line. If you like #1 Camalot size cracks, then jump on this one. It just keeps on going...
    By SirVato
    From: Boulder
    Sep 18, 2007
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    This Route Is sweeet!! #1s are usually pretty tough for me. I found that I just push through the thin stuff and every ten feet or so there seemed to be a GOOD hand jam.
    For me the start was kind of awkward and, also when the steepness eases off and the crack thins for the final stratch to the anchors.
    Not hard but your pumped and it seems your feet mey slip on the sandy-ish rock.
    By reddirt
    Sep 27, 2007

    Bring a heaping helping of #1 camalots

    Indian Creek virgin on the east coast here... what constitutes a "heaping helping"?
    By DaveB
    Oct 19, 2007

    Pente is one of the finest crack routes I've climbed. Of course, the splitter is classic, but the left-facing corner above really gives the route its full value!

    Take advantage of any rests you may find.

    The gear recommendation in the new Bloom book is good. However, for peace-of-mind, one might consider taking an additional #2, #2.5, and/or #3.5 Friend(s).
    By JoshuaTreeRunner
    From: Los Angeles
    Nov 26, 2007

    The route is loooong. My hands are average sized (not small) and this route is perfect hands for peeps with small hands. Nonetheless it was quite enjoyable and sustained for the long face splitter. Some rests here and there to help. Then the 2nd half is the layback (for me). Good rests is the 2nd half. TR'ed this and its my fav 5.11 at the creek.
    By Clayton Rardon
    From: Yucca Valley, CA
    Feb 17, 2008

    This has to be my favorite pitch of crack anywhere. End of story.

    (Bring two ropes, a 70m doesn't cut it)
    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 6, 2008

    This is hands down one of the best routes at the creek, especially in the 5.11 grade. Pretty much a hike if you know how to hand jam, the top part of the route is a bit of a sting in the tail though ... Don't make the mistake of taping for this route if you have bigger hands!
    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 27, 2008

    70 won't come close to cutting it on this 160' route. Seriously this could be the best crack climb ever. As many stars as possible. It would have been wortj driving out to the creek just for this route.
    6 yellow, 7 red, 3 green and 2 purple camalot shoud work (plus one draw & 1 shoulder sling).

    CL
    By christopher adams
    Jul 14, 2009

    How hard is the direct start to the upper crack?
    By Courtney Pace
    From: Sandy
    Mar 18, 2010

    Don't forget the .75's. At least 3 or 4. Save some juice for the end, it gets pretty spicy!
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 27, 2012

    Climbed this a few days ago and sand started flowing down the crack from the top of the first big ledge and coming out at the bottom. The sand was essentially flowing out of the crack for 2 minutes non-stop. Has this ever happened to anyone before? Definitely freaked me out a bit...
    By Nelson Day
    From: Joshua Tree, CA
    Oct 21, 2013
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    I took 5 0.75 (green c4) cams and used all of them. You burn one right off the bat on the section before the roof. The upper section takes them well. I also took 9 #1 (red C4) and placed all of them. Such a good line! I didn't place any finger sized pieces. I did place one #3 c4 at the pod at the base of the main crack (just above the roof). I placed a couple #2 (yellow c4) cams as well at the roof.
    By doligo
    Mar 24, 2014

    The chockstones just to the right of the climber in this picture: mountainproject.com/v/10604651... are VERY LOOSE! Don't belay from the cave, but rather from the left side of the boulder at the base. It would be nice if someone can trundle the blocks on rappel (we didn't have a second rope, so had to be lowered with some shenanigans with an 80). Oh and btw, 80M doesn't make it - the climb must be close to 160, rather than 150.
    By Kevin Kent
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Nov 3, 2014

    FA Hong? The plaque looks a lot like his others and I'm guessing he wouldn't have passed by this when doing the FA of Slot Machine.
    By bphelps15
    From: Colorado
    Oct 24, 2016

    David Bloom is a total sandbagger on this route!!! He recommends 3 #2s for the route, all of which my partner and I placed within the first 30 feet of the route. However, more #2s are needed at the top of the splitter below the rest. I was placing 1s there and they were pretty damn tipped out. Good thing my partner and I felt comfortable at that size or else we coulda gotten hurt. Does anyone else notice that his gear recommendations are not adequate for most routes??