REI Community
Pentapitch Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dike from Hell T 
Endless Torment T 
Flashdance T,TR 
Ginseng T 
Jackalope  T 
Japanese Terraces T 
Lesbian Seagulls S 
Littlefoot T 
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 
Neuromancer S 
Nubbins Direct T 
Nubbins to Nowhere T 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Pentapass T 
Pentapitch T 
Pudgy Gumbies T 
Sasquatch T 

Pentapitch Area Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.56859, -111.73767 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,133
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003  with updates from Mike Marmar and 1 more
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
i guess goats can climb 5.8...

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!

    Getting There 

    The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. The directions in the Ruckman guide (as well as older comments below) are wrong since a bridge by the pumphouse washed out.

    After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.

    Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.

    Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).

    Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt the right side of the field. At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.

    Approach time is about 20 minutes.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 4.1 miles from here

    17 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Pentapitch Area

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Pentapitch Area:
    Pentapass   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
    Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
    Japanese Terraces   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
    Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
    Nubbins Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 80'   
    Endless Torment   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
    Nubbins to Nowhere   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 165'   
    Dike from Hell   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Pearls Before Swine   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Lesbian Seagulls   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    Neuromancer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Littlefoot   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Flashdance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Pudgy Gumbies   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Pentapitch Area

    Featured Route For Pentapitch Area
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Pudgy Gumbies from the belay. When y...

    Pudgy Gumbies 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Pentapitch Area
    A lesson in offset balance! This peculiar testpiece packs maximal climbing into 80 leaning feet. One of my favorite LCC cracks.Links up a series of left-leaning cracks on a giant orangeish leaning rectangle. Follow the narrow left trending lieback ramp for the first 35 feet (crux) until the awesome jamming begins. The climb has always seemed a little dirty and the lichen can stay moist after a rain- it is not often it is climbed. It is fully worthy of your time. Treat it as a little destination ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of Pentapitch Area Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trail off the mtn bike trail. This is the left tur...
    BETA PHOTO: Trail off the mtn bike trail. This is the left tur...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Large pine trees on the right side of the mtn bike...
    BETA PHOTO: Large pine trees on the right side of the mtn bike...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trailhead and bridge shown by the two stars here. ...
    BETA PHOTO: Trailhead and bridge shown by the two stars here. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Pentapitch area!
    BETA PHOTO: The Pentapitch area!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...
    BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...

    Comments on Pentapitch Area Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike the Trad Guy
    Mar 12, 2002
    pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves.
    By Jared Brown
    Jun 24, 2002
    The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 21, 2004
    There is now a piton where the tree used to be. Too bad, because you could get a small stopper and a small cam as pro.
    By Peter Gram
    From: Cupertino, CA
    May 18, 2004
    No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004.
    By Tico
    May 25, 2007
    My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch.
    Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper.
    By lauren wildflower
    Aug 31, 2009
    two important tips that would've helped us first-timers to the area:
    1) to get to pentapitch, DON'T turn at the pipe! this gets you waist-deep in weeds. instead, keep walking past the pipe until you see two massive pine trees on the left and large stone steps leading to the right across a muddy area. after only about a minute you'll walk into a large talus field. follow the right edge of this to the base of pentapitch area.
    2) the pitch following sasquatch feels much more difficult than 5.8 and involves more slab climbing than we trad climbers were prepared for. we had a doubled/tripled rack and still ran out of little pro to .75 because the tiny finger-tip crack was all there was. great climb, but be prepared!
    By grk10vq
    Aug 31, 2009
    i had the pleasure of witnessing the latter half of that shit show, i couldn't figure out how you guys ran out of gear 15 feet above the anchor on a pitch requiring roughly four pieces?

    glad you survived.
    By rth
    From: Salt Lake City
    Jun 8, 2011
    requested update on the pump house bridge to get to the pentapitch area. Is there a replacement in place or in the works?
    By Greg Gavin
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 12, 2011
    no bridge as of 6/12/11, and probably won't be for at least a few months.
    By Larzk Krause
    Sep 8, 2016
    Left some sportiva mythos at the base yesterday. Please send me a message if you find them.

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