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Pentapitch Area
Routes Sorted
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Dike from Hell T 
Endless Torment T 
Flashdance T,TR 
Ginseng T 
Jackalope  T 
Japanese Terraces T 
Lesbian Seagulls S 
Littlefoot T 
Loch Ness Monster T,TR 
Neuromancer S 
Nubbins Direct T 
Nubbins to Nowhere T 
Pearls Before Swine S 
Pentapass T 
Pentapitch T 
Pudgy Gumbies T 
Sasquatch T 

Pentapass 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dunno.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: zoso on Jun 22, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the route.

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a good alternate to the 1st pitch of Pentapitch; a good way to pass other parties if you're headed for another route up higher.

    Start on the slab just left of the dirt to keep the rubber clean. Follow the obvious low angle crack, traverse left to a left-facing flake that swallows pro. At the flake's terminus, use the next obvious crack that takes you to a small pine tree. Chains are just up and right of the tree.

    Location 

    20 feet right of Pentapitch is this very obvious line connecting edges, cracks, and flake features. Continue higher or rap with a 60m down Jackalope.

    Protection 

    Gear to #1 Camalot. Chains up top shared with Jackalope.


    Comments on Pentapass Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 16, 2017
    By zoso
    Jun 22, 2017

    It's relatively probable that this has been climbed either back in the 70's or of late. It was chock-full of dirt though, had loose rock and lots of dead branches in the way but is quite clean now. Just get your grubby little hands on it and clean it further.
    By Greg Gavin
    From: SLC, UT
    Jun 22, 2017

    We've climbed this variation a bunch of times over the years. Good addition to the data base.
    By BigNobody
    From: all over, mostly Utah
    Jun 26, 2017

    All these low lying gems just lying in wait. Reminds me about this "FA".

    mountainproject.com/v/die-anot...
    By zoso
    Jun 26, 2017

    Ok then. I changed it to FRA. Does that one little letter help you fell better?
    By BigNobody
    From: all over, mostly Utah
    Jun 27, 2017

    I fell like a tree! Thanks for the change.
    By johnny utah
    From: Salt Lake City
    Jul 15, 2017

    This in my mind has always been a first pitch variation of Pentapitch. Several guides have used this for lead training for many years to help avoid clogging the start of the standard start of the route.
    By zoso
    Jul 15, 2017

    Your mind is 10 feet left of reality.
    By ddriver
    From: SLC
    Jul 17, 2017

    20 feet right? You mean the clean corner maybe 5 feet right?

    See cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/9...

    Agree it is a good start for Sasquatch if Pentapitch is occupied, and more direct. Good name, definitely better than D.A.D.
    By zoso
    Jul 17, 2017

    No it is right of your pic.
    By Scott Morris
    From: Bountiful, Utah
    Jul 19, 2017
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    If you're looking for granite 5.7 trad climbs, this one didn't disappoint. Great rock, great gear, fun movement. Worthwhile in its own right.
    By greggrylls
    5 hours ago

    Good addition to the area. There is fun movement between cracks linking the features.

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